Lithium LifePo4 12v Batteries - Time For An Upgrade?

[Rapt0rUK]

Thanks for the replies guys, some really valid points to give me more to think about.

I had a really good chat with the guys at Rayne Automotive today, they build pre-wired kits with all the various components ready to go. We got into a long conversations about Lithium... their net position, if money was no object then Lithium is of course the future and the way to go...but the investment puts most off.

They fully scoped a complete solution for me 2 X 95AH AGM batteries, CTEK DC-DC, 1000w modified sinewave inverter, Victron 175w solar panel with mounting kit, 6 LED lights, couple of reading lights, extra USB sockets, EHU kit, BMV 712 monitor, all cables, RCD board, 230v sockets, switches etc... Basically full end of end system.. £1400...

It's a pretty impressive proposition and really left me wondering which way to go...

I'm lead to believe LPG hob and a diesel heater is way more cost efficient than trying to generate heat with electric. So that means our power usage is likely to only really be lights, fridge and inverter for the times we're not on EHU to charge camera batteries, laptops, iPad etc...

Their view with that sort of usage, 2 X 95AH AGM's with DC-DC and solar for support would cover us no problem... Would you disagree?

The main thing we want to avoid is having to run the engine on a site to keep our fridge and lights going... I cant imagine we'll be days on end off-grid and staying put in one location but would be nice to know we'd get away with 2-3 days if we wanted to.

I'm not adverse to spending the cash on a Lithium setup if it's going to deliver us that much more benefit but starting to wonder whether it might actually be overkill for our needs at probably way more than £1400 (haven't actually coated all those components yet)...

Would you say a fair summary?

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Thanks for the replies guys, some really valid points to give me more to think about.

I had a really good chat with the guys at Rayne Automotive today, they build pre-wired kits with all the various components ready to go. We got into a long conversations about Lithium... their net position, if money was no object then Lithium is of course the future and the way to go...but the investment puts most off.

They fully scoped a complete solution for me 2 X 95AH AGM batteries, CTEK DC-DC, 1000w modified sinewave inverter, Victron 175w solar panel with mounting kit, 6 LED lights, couple of reading lights, extra USB sockets, EHU kit, BMV 712 monitor, all cables, RCD board, 230v sockets, switches etc... Basically full end of end system.. £1400...

It's a pretty impressive proposition and really left me wondering which way to go...

I'm lead to believe LPG hob and a diesel heater is way more cost efficient than trying to generate heat with electric. So that means our power usage is likely to only really be lights, fridge and inverter for the times we're not on EHU to charge camera batteries, laptops, iPad etc...

Their view with that sort of usage, 2 X 95AH AGM's with DC-DC and solar for support would cover us no problem... Would you disagree?

The main thing we want to avoid is having to run the engine on a site to keep our fridge and lights going... I cant imagine we'll be days on end off-grid and staying put in one location but would be nice to know we'd get away with 2-3 days if we wanted to.

I'm not adverse to spending the cash on a Lithium setup if it's going to deliver us that much more benefit but starting to wonder whether it might actually be overkill for our needs at probably way more than £1400 (haven't actually coated all those components yet)...

Would you say a fair summary?

Sounds like a good set up and if it does what you need it to it’s all good.
There are a lot of really high end systems out there and like anything else in life it’s easy to get carried away with the numbers and end up with more than you need.
I did buy a 100ah lithium because I got a good deal on a bundle with a Victron 12/10 charger. One of my main reasons for wanting the lithium is actually the weight of the thing. Apart from being able to use it down to a lower SOC and therefore it being equivalent to about a 180ah AGM it only weighs 14kg. That’s much lighter than 180ah worth of AGM and it all counts. For fuel and also payload especially in my T32 LWB. She is pretty heavy to start with.
Not going to bother with an inverter as I don’t think it’s essential to build in.

 

[Dellmassive]

Thanks for the replies guys, some really valid points to give me more to think about.

I had a really good chat with the guys at Rayne Automotive today, they build pre-wired kits with all the various components ready to go. We got into a long conversations about Lithium... their net position, if money was no object then Lithium is of course the future and the way to go...but the investment puts most off.

They fully scoped a complete solution for me 2 X 95AH AGM batteries, CTEK DC-DC, 1000w modified sinewave inverter, Victron 175w solar panel with mounting kit, 6 LED lights, couple of reading lights, extra USB sockets, EHU kit, BMV 712 monitor, all cables, RCD board, 230v sockets, switches etc... Basically full end of end system.. £1400...

It's a pretty impressive proposition and really left me wondering which way to go...

I'm lead to believe LPG hob and a diesel heater is way more cost efficient than trying to generate heat with electric. So that means our power usage is likely to only really be lights, fridge and inverter for the times we're not on EHU to charge camera batteries, laptops, iPad etc...

Their view with that sort of usage, 2 X 95AH AGM's with DC-DC and solar for support would cover us no problem... Would you disagree?

The main thing we want to avoid is having to run the engine on a site to keep our fridge and lights going... I cant imagine we'll be days on end off-grid and staying put in one location but would be nice to know we'd get away with 2-3 days if we wanted to.

I'm not adverse to spending the cash on a Lithium setup if it's going to deliver us that much more benefit but starting to wonder whether it might actually be overkill for our needs at probably way more than £1400 (haven't actually coated all those components yet)...

Would you say a fair summary?

sounds like a good setup...

and 2x AGMs can be a good solution for now untill you decide on Lifpoe4.

Though i personally would question the "modified sine" inverter.... Id ask for an upgrade to the "Pure Sine" inverter . . . . .

I've has issues with modified sine wave inverters smoking my laptop PSU and dewalt 18v drill chargers in the past , , , ,

they are a bit more cash . . . . but can be used just like the 240v main from the wall, with ANY devices with no-worries.

Modified Sine you need to be a bit more attentive to what your powering . . . . (some kit will get hot, whistle, wine, smoke or be under powered)

I've changed all my inverters over to Pure-Sine now and just keep a couple of Modified units about as a backup or to borrow out if needed( with the above mention of "keep an eye on what your powering" note.

i also stick with known branded inverters as best as i can, . . . . currently Victron & Cotek for the big ones and Victron & Bestek for the smaller and portable ones.

 

[Pete C]

Looks like a good setup. Definitely don’t try and generate heat using electricity - gas and diesel are much more cost effective and in line with your desire for 2-3 days off grid.
I would always get a pure sine wave inverter - too many issues like Dell described, but do you really need 1000W ?

Pete

 

[Rapt0rUK]

Sounds like a good set up and if it does what you need it to it’s all good.
There are a lot of really high end systems out there and like anything else in life it’s easy to get carried away with the numbers and end up with more than you need.
I did buy a 100ah lithium because I got a good deal on a bundle with a Victron 12/10 charger. One of my main reasons for wanting the lithium is actually the weight of the thing. Apart from being able to use it down to a lower SOC and therefore it being equivalent to about a 180ah AGM it only weighs 14kg. That’s much lighter than 180ah worth of AGM and it all counts. For fuel and also payload especially in my T32 LWB. She is pretty heavy to start with.
Not going to bother with an inverter as I don’t think it’s essential to build in.

Thanks, @Farnorthsurfer , excuse the naivety here but we went for the T32 so that we had plenty of headroom when it comes to payload, other than more weight = less fuel economy, is there a limit on payload weight we also need to consider?

 

[Rapt0rUK]

sounds like a good setup...

and 2x AGMs can be a good solution for now untill you decide on Lifpoe4.

Though i personally would question the "modified sine" inverter.... Id ask for an upgrade to the "Pure Sine" inverter . . . . .

I've has issues with modified sine wave inverters smoking my laptoip and dewalk 18v drill chargers in the past , , , ,

they are a bit more cash . . . . but can be used just like the main from the wall.

Modifed Sine you need to be a bit more attentive to what your powering . . . . (some kit will get hot, whistle, wine, smoke or be under powered)

Thanks for the heads up, they did mention that to be fair to them, suggested i need ot be careful what is plugged into it and check ratings etc... for the difference in price i'd probably just get the real deal anyway.

My biggest concern with the AGM route is whether we would realistically be able to keep them both charged sufficiently with maybe an hour or 2 on the road each day and 170w solar in the winter months. With no real world experience i've no idea how long you'd have to drive to get 2 x 95AH batteries back up to near full...

Like you say, might be that we design the system in a way that components can be switched out fairly easily to Lithium down the line when prices become more affordable. I'll go through the process of pricing up a Lithium system based on your diagram and the Renogy system sat in the middle and see just how different a price we're talking...

**EDIT**

OK I ran the numbers, at a very top level from what i can see everything in the kit would stay the same, only i'd be swapping the CTECK for the Renogy and swapping the AGM's for a Lithium - Battery monitor and solar kit etc would all stay the same...

So on that basis using the TN Power 100Ah Lithium (£519) as a guide (un-tested at this stage, I know) you're looking at £1,641...so there's only £218 in it as the CTECK and Renogy are pretty much like for like and the 2 x AGM's are £315 vs £519 for the TN Power.

Am i missing something here apart from a few isolator switches, as I expected a much bigger difference...? Even if you throw in a Victron MPPT rather than the in-bulit Renogy it's not a huge leap??

 

[Salty Spuds]

Thanks for the heads up, they did mention that to be fair to them, suggested i need ot be careful what is plugged into it and check ratings etc... for the difference in price i'd probably just get the real deal anyway.

My biggest concern with the AGM route is whether we would realistically be able to keep them both charged sufficiently with maybe an hour or 2 on the road each day and 170w solar in the winter months. With no real world experience i've no idea how long you'd have to drive to get 2 x 95AH batteries back up to near full...

Like you say, might be that we design the system in a way that components can be switched out fairly easily to Lithium down the line when prices become more affordable. I'll go through the process of pricing up a Lithium system based on your diagram and the Renogy system sat in the middle and see just how different a price we're talking...

**EDIT**

OK I ran the numbers, at a very top level from what i can see everything in the kit would stay the same, only i'd be swapping the CTECK for the Renogy and swapping the AGM's for a Lithium - Battery monitor and solar kit etc would all stay the same...

So on that basis using the TN Power 100Ah Lithium (£519) as a guide (un-tested at this stage, I know) you're looking at £1,641...so there's only £218 in it as the CTECK and Renogy are pretty much like for like and the 2 x AGM's are £315 vs £519 for the TN Power.

Am i missing something here apart from a few isolator switches, as I expected a much bigger difference...? Even if you throw in a Victron MPPT rather than the in-bulit Renogy it's not a huge leap??

Just to add some real world meat to the bones.
We’re currently on a 5 week skiing holiday in the Alps, we are mixing our nights between off grid Aires & campsites. Our setup is as follows:-

SuperB 95Ah Lifepo4
Sterling 12/30 B2B charger
Victron 12/75 MppT & 170W solar (doing bugger all in the shady valleys)
Victron 12/15 mains charger
Webasto diesel heater & a 2kw Electric fan heater.
Aldi £20 electric blanket
Isotherm compressor fridge.
Gas hob & 6kg Gaslow refillable cylinder.

So; if we camp off grid for a night, cook a meal, have the webasto on for 4-5 hours before bed, use the lights, charge the phones, play music on the Bose mini, run the fridge all night (not that it runs much in these temps) the battery is down to around 65-70% charge the following morning. Due to Lithium being able to take much more charging current, the Sterling chucks 30A into it as soon as the engine is started, so the battery is back to 100% within 20-30 mins.
When we’re on EHU on a campsite, the Victron mains charger runs the lot, the battery goes into float & we run the fan heater.
The superB will charge down to -20C & the built in BMS deals with all the tricky stuff.
Don’t over think it, just put in good quality kit & KISS. My weak link is the Sterling 1230, but I had it to hand, I’ll swap it out for a Victron B2B if it dies. That said, the Sterling is very flexible when it comes to setting up the charging profile for the Lithium, something lacking in some of the Victron kit.

 

[Rapt0rUK]

Just to add some real world meat to the bones.
We’re currently on a 5 week skiing holiday in the Alps, we are mixing our nights between off grid Aires & campsites. Our setup is as follows:-

SuperB 95Ah Lifepo4
Sterling 12/30 B2B charger
Victron 12/75 MppT & 170W solar (doing bugger all in the shady valleys)
Victron 12/15 mains charger
Webasto diesel heater & a 2kw Electric fan heater.
Aldi £20 electric blanket
Isotherm compressor fridge.
Gas hob & 6kg Gaslow refillable cylinder.

So; if we camp off grid for a night, cook a meal, have the webasto on for 4-5 hours before bed, use the lights, charge the phones, play music on the Bose mini, run the fridge all night (not that it runs much in these temps) the battery is down to around 65-70% charge the following morning. Due to Lithium being able to take much more charging current, the Sterling chucks 30A into it as soon as the engine is started, so the battery is back to 100% within 20-30 mins.
When we’re on EHU on a campsite, the Victron mains charger runs the lot, the battery goes into float & we run the fan heater.
The superB will charge down to -20C & the built in BMS deals with all the tricky stuff.
Don’t over think it, just put in good quality kit & KISS. My weak link is the Sterling 1230, but I had it to hand, I’ll swap it out for a Victron B2B if it dies. That said, the Sterling is very flexible when it comes to setting up the charging profile for the Lithium, something lacking in some of the Victron kit.

Thanks @Salty Spuds , really helpful insight... we do plan to get out to Europe during the Ski season so useful to know. That SuperB battery though... made my eyes water when i saw the price...£1500 just for the battery, more than the complete setup cost of the AGM route - that said fully charged in 20-30 mins is a bit of a deal breaker.

Key question for me really is how long would it take to get the same charge back into 2 x 95AH AGM's, are we talking a full day on the road? If that is the case, then that's where the argument falls down. As in your current circumstances solar isn't cutting it and EHU isn't always going to be an option so if it means i've got to sit with the engine running to keep things going, I'd rather bite the bullet now and spend £1500 on a battery.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Thanks, @Farnorthsurfer , excuse the naivety here but we went for the T32 so that we had plenty of headroom when it comes to payload, other than more weight = less fuel economy, is there a limit on payload weight we also need to consider?

Quick note on payload, check your V5 for unladen weight and then subtract that from your 3200kg and as I am sure you know that’s your payload headroom. Always have a driver and fuel so that’s the first thing to add in.
You may well have plenty of payload to play with but my T32 4Motion 180 EU5 plus a full camper conversion will almost certainly start to look limited by the time I load it with passenger seat and toys like windsurfing kit and bikes SUP boards etc. So I always have an eye on what stuff weighs. That and being a helicopter engineer makes you a weight weenie by nature.

 

[Salty Spuds]

Quick note on payload, check your V5 for unladen weight and then subtract that from your 3200kg and as I am sure you know that’s your payload headroom. Always have a driver and fuel so that’s the first thing to add in.
You may well have plenty of payload to play with but my T32 4Motion 180 EU5 plus a full camper conversion will almost certainly start to look limited by the time I load it with passenger seat and toys like windsurfing kit and bikes SUP boards etc. So I always have an eye on what stuff weighs. That and being a helicopter engineer makes you a weight weenie by nature.

True, my Lithium will weigh a third of the weight of 2 x 95Ah AGM for the same useable capacity.

 

[Dellmassive]

Key question for me really is how long would it take to get the same charge back into 2 x 95AH AGM's,

just to help out with this calculation:

AGMs are recomended to be charged at "charge current should preferably not exceed 0,2C (20A for a 100Ah battery).The temperature of a battery will increase by more than 10°C if the charge current exceeds 0,2C. Therefore temperature compensation is required if the charge current exceeds 0,2C" - Battery Chargers - How I Did It -

and

"Deep Cycle AGM: - AGM batteries should be charged using a charger with a mode switch for AGM type batteries. It is recommended to use a charger, current limited to 20% or 0.2C of the batteries capacity at a charging voltage of between 14.6 – 14.8V following deep cycle use, or 13.6V – 13.8V for standby use. Charging should be paused if the battery or ambient temperature exceeds 50°C."

**

so to keep things simple lets round the numbers off and say you have a 100ah leisure battery.

the charge rate should be 10-20% of the 100Ah capacity - so you would need a 10 - 20A charger (10 - 20Ah)

assuming the 100Ah battery was 100% flat (theoretically) then the 10A charger would take 10hours to charge back to 100%

assuming the 100Ah battery was 100% flat (theoretically) then the 20A charger would take 5hours to charge back to 100%

**

if you had 2x 100Ah batterys, then you just add up the numbers: so (200Ah @ 10A charge = 20hours) (200Ah @ 20A charge = 10hours)

now realistically with Deep Cycle SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries you can only use the top 50% of power . . . so your 2x100Ah batteries will effectivly be 1x100ah.

this would also effect the recharge, so your 2x batterys @ 200Ah will only be 50% depleted when classed as "flat" or 100Ah depleated, so you would need to recharge that 100ah or 10A for 10 hours!!!!

**

Now in comparison a Lifpo4 battery can charge at up to 1C, so 100A for a 100Ah battery charged in 1hr, or more realisticly you would go for a 20-50A charge so 5-2hrs

**

all the above is theoretical, playing with numbers.

in reality things arnt so simple, you get losses, internal resistance, external resistance, heat soak etc etc....

long story short it can take 10hrs for my Noco 15A charger to fully charge a flat AGM 110ah xtreme battery

.


so two of them takes up to 24hrs . . . . !!!


****


so the simple answer is, no. . . . a 2 hour drive will not help recharge a flat 200ah AGM battery bank with a 10a/20a dc-dc charger, it may take a 5-10 hour drive.


***

you have to ask yourself . . . will i flatten my 200ah battery bank?

well in my case the simple answer was yes! - over a 3day camping session, dead flat. - Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -

i managed to connect the flat AGM up to the vans 40A Redarc and charge for half an hour . . . . and that recharge was flat again in hours.


***


so in my opinion the solution is to keep the battery bank FULLY CHARGED as much as possible, by as many means as possible, as long as possible. . . . . then when you realy need it, it will be there for you.

so id recommend:

EHU + 240v charger + dc-dc + solar (mobile fold out in summer) for AGM (but remember the 50%DOD of SLA batterys)

if adding Lithium into the mix then as you have seen the recharge rate is way, way higher . . . . but id still recommend all three charge methods if you need to rely on you leisure system for power.


Solar doesn't have to be fitted to the roof etc, you can just take some fold-out panels with you or even flexible panels . . . during summer just slide them in the van and deploy when your static. then just leave at home during winter months and rely on EHU + DC-DC.

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TechVlog-101 Media Tv
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[Rapt0rUK]

just to help out with this calculation:

AGMs are recomended to be charged at "charge current should preferably not exceed 0,2C (20A for a 100Ah battery).The temperature of a battery will increase by more than 10°C if the charge current exceeds 0,2C. Therefore temperature compensation is required if the charge current exceeds 0,2C" - Battery Chargers - How I Did It -

and

"Deep Cycle AGM: - AGM batteries should be charged using a charger with a mode switch for AGM type batteries. It is recommended to use a charger, current limited to 20% or 0.2C of the batteries capacity at a charging voltage of between 14.6 – 14.8V following deep cycle use, or 13.6V – 13.8V for standby use. Charging should be paused if the battery or ambient temperature exceeds 50°C."

**

so to keep things simple lets round the numbers off and say you have a 100ah leisure battery.

the charge rate should be 10-20% of the 100Ah capacity - so you would need a 10 - 20A charger (10 - 20Ah)

assuming the 100Ah battery was 100% flat (theoretically) then the 10A charger would take 10hours to charge back to 100%

assuming the 100Ah battery was 100% flat (theoretically) then the 20A charger would take 5hours to charge back to 100%

**

if you had 2x 100Ah batterys, then you just add up the numbers: so (200Ah @ 10A charge = 20hours) (200Ah @ 20A charge = 10hours)

now realistically with Deep Cycle SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries you can only use the top 50% of power . . . so your 2x100Ah batteries will effectivly be 1x100ah.

this would also effect the recharge, so your 2x batterys @ 200Ah will only be 50% depleted when classed as "flat" or 100Ah depleated, so you would need to recharge that 100ah or 10A for 10 hours!!!!

**

Now in comparison a Lifpo4 battery can charge at up to 1C, so 100A for a 100Ah battery charged in 1hr, or more realisticly you would go for a 20-50A charge so 5-2hrs

**

all the above is theoretical, playing with numbers.

in reality things arnt so simple, you get losses, internal resistance, external resistance, heat soak etc etc....

long story short it can take 10hrs for my Noco 15A charger to fully charge a flat AGM 110ah xtreme battery

.
View attachment 58415

so two of them takes up to 24hrs . . . . !!!


****


so the simple s, no. . . . a 2 hour drive will not help recharge a flat 200ah AGM battery bank with a 10a/20a dc-dc charger, it may take a 5-10 hour drive.


***

you have to ask yourself . . . will i flatten my 200ah battery bank?

well in my case the simple answer was yes! - over a 3day camping session, dead flat. - Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -

i managed to connect the flat AGM up to the vans 40A Redarc and charge for half an hour . . . . and that recharge was flat again in hours.


***


so in my opinion the solution is to keep the battery bank FULLY CHARGED as much as possible, by as many means as possible, as long as possible. . . . . then when you realy need it, it will be there for you.

so id recommend:

EHU + 240v charger + dc-dc + solar (mobile fold out in summer) for AGM (but remember the 50%DOD of SLA batterys)

if adding Lithium into the mix then as you have seen the recharge rate is way, way higher . . . . but id still recommend all three charge methods if you need to rely on you leisure system for power.


Solar doesn't have to be fitted to the roof etc, you can just take some fold-out panels with you or even flexible panels . . . during summer just slide them in the van and deploy when your static. then just leave at home during winter months and rely on EHU + DC-DC.

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TechVlog-101 Media Tv
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Wow thanks again @Dellmassive, makes complete sense, really appreciate the reply!

The more i look into the Renogy box and watch the reviews (Will's) the more that looks like a cool but of kit regardless. Am i right in thinking I could opt for that instead of a CTEK DC-DC and even if i start out with AGM, all other components can remain the same, then if i wanted to upgrade to Lithium at a later date, i could simply just swap the batteries?

In reality i think i'm going to go for Lithium, it's just going to be a case of finding the right priced/quality battery...

One question about the Renogy box and the max throughput when a solar source is connected... as I understand it, it splits the 50A between the 2 sources (alternator and solar) which means when on the road (when you'd want to take full advantage of the alternator) you're limited to 25A if it's getting a source from your solar... am I right in thinking if i placed an isolator switch on the solar input, this would effectively kill that input and take the throttle of the alternator input?

OR

Fantastic suggestion of the portable solar panel - my other half is reluctant to put solar on the roof (pure aesthetics!) and that I guess solves it, hadn't even considered that as an option!

Guess the question would then be, is there a fairly simple plug and play connector that could connect a portable panel to the the Renogy box - just watching that YT vid and notice the guy talk about Victron Quick Disconnects... so assuming that wires to the Renogy box and then the portable panels plug into the Victron kit... in that instance, no need for the isolator switch as when you're on the road, pack up the solar panels, disconnect them meaning problem solved?

*EDIT*

Just saw the second video, so looks like there are various types of disconnects, just a case of finding one that will match the input (eyelet size) of the Renogy box right?

 

[Dellmassive]

Am i right in thinking I could opt for that instead of a CTEK DC-DC and even if i start out with AGM, all other components can remain the same, then if i wanted to upgrade to Lithium at a later date, i could simply just swap the batteries?

- correct

.

One question about the Renogy box and the max throughput when a solar source is connected... as I understand it, it splits the 50A between the 2 sources (alternator and solar) which means when on the road (when you'd want to take full advantage of the alternator) you're limited to 25A if it's getting a source from your solar... am I right in thinking if i placed an isolator switch on the solar input, this would effectively kill that input and take the throttle of the alternator input?

- correct

"So basically it 50A or 600w from either solar or alternator as a single....
But.
As soon as you add both you go to 25a/25a split...." - Dc-dc Charger (for Leisure Battery) -- How I Done It --

.

Guess the question would then be, is there a fairly simple plug and play connector that could connect a portable panel to the the Renogy box - just watching that YT vid and notice the guy talk about Victron Quick Disconnects... so assuming that wires to the Renogy box and then the portable panels plug into the Victron kit... in that instance, no need for the isolator switch as when you're on the road, pack up the solar panels, disconnect them meaning problem solved?

- correct, and if your refering to the 2 videos above? that me =]

so yes you can use any quick disconects you like as long as they are rated for the volt/amps.

Me personally i like to use standard MC4 connectors for the PV side and Anderson connectors for the Power side. - but as i mentioned in the video you could use the Victron quick disconnects as they are rated at 15A. @Loz has done the same with neutrik connector - Mc4 Exterior Socket

Just saw the second video, so looks like there are various types of disconnects, just a case of finding one that will match the input (eyelet size) of the Renogy box right?

- yes and no, you need to have the correct ring terminals crimped to you cables for the main power in/out/battery etc, but you can use any quick disonect you like . . . . but will just have to crimp a ring terminal to the end of it. (you can buy the ring terminals seperatly in packs and crimp on yourself.


live got the rings/terminals/connectors and crinpers etc listed here for you to look at:


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Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --

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.

 

[Rapt0rUK]

- correct

.

- correct

"So basically it 50A or 600w from either solar or alternator as a single....
But.
As soon as you add both you go to 25a/25a split...." - Dc-dc Charger (for Leisure Battery) -- How I Done It --

.
- correct, and if your refering to the 2 videos above? that me =]

so yes you can use any quick disconects you like as long as they are rated for the volt/amps.

Me personally i like to use standard MC4 connectors for the PV side and Anderson connectors for the Power side. - but as i mentioned in the video you could use the Victron quick disconnects as they are rated at 15A. @Loz has done the same with neutrik connector - Mc4 Exterior Socket

- yes and no, you need to have the correct ring terminals crimped to you cables for the main power in/out/battery etc, but you can use any quick disonect you like . . . . but will just have to crimp a ring terminal to the end of it. (you can buy the ring terminals seperatly in packs and crimp on yourself.


live got the rings/terminals/connectors and crinpers etc listed here for you to look at:


********************************************************************

Kit List And Stuff -- How I Done It & What I Use --

*********************************************************************

.

Ah ha! It's you in the vids, i did wonder!

Well think you've cracked it there then...I'll start by getting the basic components together in my head and then maybe chat through with the guys at TravelVolts and see if they can put together in a package for me. Big thanks again!!! I've a learnt an awful lot from this forum in the past few days!

 

[Dellmassive]

Ah ha! It's you in the vids, i did wonder!

Well think you've cracked it there then...I'll start by getting the basic components together in my head and then maybe chat through with the guys at TravelVolts and see if they can put together in a package for me. Big thanks again!!! I've a learnt an awful lot from this forum in the past few days!

No Problem . . . . @travelvolts - over to you =]

 

[Salty Spuds]

Ah ha! It's you in the vids, i did wonder!

Well think you've cracked it there then...I'll start by getting the basic components together in my head and then maybe chat through with the guys at TravelVolts and see if they can put together in a package for me. Big thanks again!!! I've a learnt an awful lot from this forum in the past few days!

My personal preference (and that’s all it is) is to avoid “all in one” solutions, admittedly they make for an easier simpler installation. The problem I’ve found through bitter & expensive experience is if one part of the one box solution fails, you end up binning the lot & throwing 3/4 of good kit away. E.g if my MppT fails, I still have mains & B2B to fall back on. There’s redundancy in the system, whereas a one box solution has all your eggs in err, “one box”
Like I said, this is purely my opinion & just the way my mind works.

 

[Dellmassive]

there is a list over here detailing what people have decided to fit - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

it mentions solar . . . but also covers EHU + DC-DC



@Dellmassive - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.

@andys - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.

@Deaky - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.

@Farnorthsurfer - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.

@Pete C - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.

@Dieseldonkey - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

.
@Grim Reaper - What Solar Panel/controller, Dc-dc, Leisure Battery - Have You Got ?

etc


@Salty Spuds . . . . add yours to the thread.



Thread Title now changed to include all charging methods inc DC-DC etc. . . .,
just copy/edit/paste the list below and show us your setup. . . . . .

************************************

***************************************
Copy & Paste the below to add your setup:

Solar Panel:
Mobile Panel:
Solar charge controller:
DC-DC charger:
EHU Charger:
battery bank:
Battery Monitor:
Inverter:
other:

***************************************


**********************************

 

[Pete C]

My personal preference (and that’s all it is) is to avoid “all in one” solutions, admittedly they make for an easier simpler installation. The problem I’ve found through bitter & expensive experience is if one part of the one box solution fails, you end up binning the lot & throwing 3/4 of good kit away. E.g if my MppT fails, I still have mains & B2B to fall back on. There’s redundancy in the system, whereas a one box solution has all your eggs in err, “one box”
Like I said, this is purely my opinion & just the way my mind works.

Agree with this, and there is another benefit - the individual components can generally be secured in smaller locations, making better use of all available space.

Pete

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

My personal preference (and that’s all it is) is to avoid “all in one” solutions, admittedly they make for an easier simpler installation. The problem I’ve found through bitter & expensive experience is if one part of the one box solution fails, you end up binning the lot & throwing 3/4 of good kit away. E.g if my MppT fails, I still have mains & B2B to fall back on. There’s redundancy in the system, whereas a one box solution has all your eggs in err, “one box”
Like I said, this is purely my opinion & just the way my mind works.

Agree in principle and am still working on cramming a Renogy DC-DC, TN100 and fuse box under my passenger seat so can also agree it’s easier to fit smaller bits in. However the Renogy won because of built in LTD in a North of Scotland based van.
PS, anyone suggest a small DP switch I can use to isolate the 160w PV?

 

[Salty Spuds]

Agree in principle and am still working on cramming a Renogy DC-DC, TN100 and fuse box under my passenger seat so can also agree it’s easier to fit smaller bits in. However the Renogy won because of built in LTD in a North of Scotland based van.
PS, anyone suggest a small DP switch I can use to isolate the 160w PV?

I don’t have a switch in the PV, can’t see the need for one personally. I just pull the fuse on the very rare occasion that I need to isolate it.