T6 Aftermarket Digital Instrument Cluster

[antony.charnley]

running the digital cluster for a few weeks now, but sinds then my hazard lights wont blink when i lock my car? any idea how this happend or a quick fix?

It's an interesting one. I have had this once or twice with a firmware update. You could try a battery disconnect to stock the BCM basic settings. But the ultimate fix is to hop back in on the Carista or VCDS and just set them back to where you wanted the flashes, bips, or number of comfort indications, then It holds. If you are passing NN15 5XU on the A14, happy to do this for you..

 

[antony.charnley]

A few days ago I had a slight issue with mine regarding my Ghost immobiliser. It failed to start, I assumed I'd put the code in wrong. Before I swapped the dash, I'd have to key out, code again. Key out, code again then start. I did this multiple times and the van still wouldn't start. I gave up and left it for 15minutes. Put the code in again and it still failed to start. In desperation I just tried the start again without putting my code in and the van fired up.

Last night it failed to start again but rather than putting the code in, I just tried starting it, It fired up.

I wonder if there is something going on with the imobiliser now the dash has been changed

Give me a call if you like, I have a few ideas and some experience with the ghost 2 having one myself with a halo 11 and digi (obviously). They absolutely don't touch each other, but a connection on your wiring harness may well need checking.

The thing to remember if your vehicle can't see your original board in the digidash, it's immobilised simple as that. You know the behaviour of your ghost by now. You know when you've done something wrong being a bit quick how to roll the key back into the code wait a second roll the key back bring it back in. Fundamentally, If you follow your normal steps and don't see the coil light flashing you know you've cleared it and it should start. For my money, you may have allegedly without prejudice misconnected part of your wiring harness remove both plugs from the rear of the harness remove the female harness plug from the vehicle the true test in the situation where the vehicle appears to be immobilised but the ghost has been activated as normal would be to bypass the harness and take the vehicle plug directly into the original board i.e. the socket on the left. If this solves the issue then it is most likely the connectors. I have supported a few customers doing self-fitting one of which had a ghost 2 he swore they were messing with each other to the point where he snipped it out. In the end he drove a seven hour round trip, And I explained further how important it is to make sure that the lever on the socket end is all the way back and then you push the plug in and allow the lever to come as far forward as possible naturally then only use the lever to bring the plug fully home and locked. When you look at this the lever has two teeth, If the lever engages late it can pull all the way home but only have engaged the first tooth meaning the plug looks great but it's still got a couple of millimetres to go.

If I was a gambling man I would say you have a plug like this that's not all the way home but occasionally making a full connection, intermittency who knows, could be about temperature.. but the quick test is going to be taking out the harness and making a direct connection. I would also advise a little slip of Greece or Vaseline on your fingers onto each of the plugs this is going to save your fingers whilst going in and out with these. I have not had a single failure on the harnesses supplied, that is not to say it's not possible but worth checking everything looks good and nothing's been trapped or stressed during fitting. I have a spare harness if you want to try it, but I have a feeling you will resolve these issues with the above.

The customer that snipped out his ghost 2, had no idea where it was installed I spotted it on a video call where the original cluster loom had clearly been stripped in places and had some extra cables with electrical tape around them. I couldn't hide on the call that I was a little horrified to see how easily accessible it was. Needless to say I did reinstall the ghost 2 for that customer and complete a full fitting free of charge as he was a website customer. I think I'm aware of nearly every possible issue and firmware glitch presently presenting with these units. Are either mitigate or explain how these will be resolved in the future to all my customers. They are nearly perfect, but software can always be improved, And they're doing a very good job of getting closer to this being absolutely robust but still retaining the level of configuration that we have all come to love from our vehicles.

Like I say give me a call if you want, just before Christmas I went through some symptomatic DSG issues and ended up with a new dual mass flywheel and driver side drive shaft. I explored all sorts of possibilities prior to that but have a pretty good idea of what my symptoms were if it will help you diagnose your current issues.

Ant.

 

[Deaky]

Thanks for your kind offer @antony.charnley. As a fault finding exercise I reverted back to the original cluster and the problem persisted. I've removed the ghost as the van needed to go into VW for some gearbox work they are looking in to the non starting issues I've been experiencing. The digidash will be going back in. Not sure about the ghost though

 

[sascha]

Hello there. i can't activate or deactivate the footwell lighting but my car have footwel lighting and its On but on dash it shows off and i cant set it on or off or change anything. how can i fix? And how can i reset the Trip counter on bottom left side? Software is from Dec.24
Best regards

 

[Jan_B]

Hello there. i can't activate or deactivate the footwell lighting but my car have footwel lighting and its On but on dash it shows off and i cant set it on or off or change anything. how can i fix? And how can i reset the Trip counter on bottom left side? Software is from Dec.24
Best regards View attachment 273758

There are many settings in the IC menu that cannot be activated
These are simply functions for other VAG vehicles like Golf
I think these menus were simply used for all vehicles to avoid having to make various adjustments…
You can find the latest software a few pages back, but that won't solve it either

 

[frankKufstein]

And how can i reset the Trip counter on bottom left side?

In the Menu

 

[sascha]

Thanks. And when i lock the indicators dont blink. How to fix that?

 

[CJW]

Thanks. And when i lock the indicators dont blink. How to fix that?

If it’s what I suspect you’re describing, it’s called something like ‘physical lights’ in the menu.

 

[sascha]

If it’s what I suspect you’re describing, it’s called something like ‘physical lights’ in the menu.

No physical lights are off. When i lock the car the indicators dont blink to confirm the lock

 

[antony.charnley]

No physical lights are off. When i lock the car the indicators dont blink to confirm the lock

On a few vehicles I've had to hop in using car scanner on a carista or VCDS on the laptop and just check those settings back in again I think the BCM sometimes forgets about the bips and the flashes for lock and unlock settings. It's a strange one since the settings never appear to have been changed but they just need reconfirming.

 

[antony.charnley]

Also if you want the VW logo loading onto your dash hop onto my website and have a look in news and updates and if you're one of the people that has been struggling to get that logo to run check those instructions again because there is now a note about compatible drive sizes for the USB and also if you're settings calibration menu has the word reboot at the bottom then you are going to have to click reboot with the USB stick in to get the VW logo and then run through settings. If none of this makes any sense hop onto my sides into the news and update section and read the updated tutorial.

Additionally I have been having some fun with the Halo 11 customising the splash screen and I have generated a USB file with a nice VW load up on it. I will host that for the Halo 11 9 and 7 for those that want it with a short instruction how to install. I've done a nice bit of photoshoppery and think it looks pretty decent. I'm loving playing with these integrations from the DigiDash to the head unit at the moment just trying to find the ultimate setup and I'll be creating a bundle to sell on my site. Including tips and tricks how to get the most out of it. Check my Instagram link in the bio if you want to catch up on a few videos I've thrown out there recently demonstrating it.

I think I'm also going to start doing a screen repair option for those that would like to take their stock head unit with a problem touch screen and convert them to touch screen Android with wireless CarPlay and Android Auto with full synchronisation to the digi dash. For many I think getting all of that out of a stock head unit and adding the digi dash will be an attractive package.

 

[CJW]

No physical lights are off. When i lock the car the indicators dont blink to confirm the lock

I now understand what you mean. Yes, when I first installed mine, It reverted to no flash and chirp when locking / unlocking. I set it back to how I wanted it using VCDS.

 

[wozzat6]

Funnily enough, I've just been playing with this. So, I have just connected my Samsung Fold 5 to the digital dash interface. I did this by smart share casting my screen. Next, I selected my audio input via Bluetooth on the head unit, which in my case is a Halo 11, and I was able to cast ways maps and listen to music on the head unit I could still advance tracks and change volume using my steering wheel and any voice commands or integrations you have in ways to use Spotify or your preferred music app would still operate as before I would say this is a really good alternative for somebody who doesn't have a current navigation solution screencast is fast just dragging down from the top of the screen and clicking smart share the device already comes up so it gets my thumbs up.

Given how well this works, I would stay cable-free and use them for charging. I have converted my two cubbies to wireless charging locations, so this is my personal preference. The early units I received did have an HDMI input on the back. I tried this with several inputs, such as the fire stick on auto mode, but never really got a satisfactory result through it it just appeared interlaced as though it was trying to read an analogue signal at the wrong resolution or something maybe it's a pal ntsc thing who knows anyway on the later versions I received no such HDMI port was there anymore initially I got quite excited because I thought I could use the monitor output cable on my alpine halo to display whatever it was displaying but on further investigation, I also found that the Alpine can only pass through media play content and would not pass through any Android Auto data due to licencing. Similarly, I don't think they're going to manage to do much with the USB input on this there are two of them: one can be used as a data input for manual firmware updates, although presently, all firmware updates I have completed have been over the air. The USB input is labelled Carplay, but I feel this will only be compatible with a USB dongle supplied by China. I have been using Android Auto Wireless, which was a Kickstarter when I first got it they are about to bring out Android Auto Wireless 2 the plus part of that is that they are opening beyond Android to include Apple Carplay, which is a great addition to any Navi unit That currently has a USB input but for obvious reasons, this is not going to function unless a device is licenced to use Android Auto or Apple Carplay and I can't see the Digidash getting that just yet.

View attachment 265282

I have just purchased and fitted mine to my T6. How have you got the navigation on the digidash?. Im also using the Halo 11 amd using samsung s24 Ultra.

 

[CJW]

No physical lights are off. When i lock the car the indicators dont blink to confirm the lock

I thought I’d covered this in the thread. In fact I had:

When the unit is first run, it needs time (ten minutes, Antony says) to communicate with the BCM. When this happened, it changed my settings for 'chime on lock' and 'flash on lock'. I went into VCDS and could see my original settings - weird. So I flipped them off /on (or vice-versa) and then it remembered and is now how I want it. I haven't noticed any other settings change but will keep my eyes open for this.

 

[Fishinbrine]

Good afternoon all,these aftermarket clusters look amazing! I have trawled the web but don't seem to be able to find one for the T6.1? Does anyone here know of one possibly? Looks a great mod for the money in the T6!

 

[Deaky]

Good afternoon all,these aftermarket clusters look amazing! I have trawled the web but don't seem to be able to find one for the T6.1? Does anyone here know of one possibly? Looks a great mod for the money in the T6!

Products

We supply and fit digital dashboards, digidash, virtual cockpits for VW, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Jeep, Porche, and more including T5.1, T6 VW Transporters, California, Caravelle. Upgrading your vehicle with supply and fitting options including remote install.

everest-vw.co.uk

 

[sascha]

On a few vehicles I've had to hop in using car scanner on a carista or VCDS on the laptop and just check those settings back in again I think the BCM sometimes forgets about the bips and the flashes for lock and unlock settings. It's a strange one since the settings never appear to have been changed but they just need reconfirming.

With VCDS i checked this settings and they are ON in BCM but the flashes for lock don't work

 

[sascha]

I thought I’d covered this in the thread. In fact I had:

I have also done it with VCDS. On/OFF and again On and it won't work

 

[jayc001]

I have also done it with VCDS. On/OFF and again On and it won't work

Change it to off, set/do it. Ignition off, back on, connect to BCM again, set it on again, Do it, ignition off and and this point it should work again.At least it did for me. Just toggling it with out Do it and ignition cycle wouldn't work.

 

[sascha]

Change it to off, set/do it. Ignition off, back on, connect to BCM again, set it on again, Do it, ignition off and and this point it should work again.At least it did for me. Just toggling it with out Do it and ignition cycle wouldn't work.

Done this in that way and don't work. Problem is still here