ToddiesT6 - Build Log
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Bit tricky tucking the tails back behind the panel as the window seal fills a lot of the space but it’s possible if your careful with the excess you leave.
Nice neat job on the carpet there. I prefer frame and panel separately too, as you will always find some reason to go back in there!
A top tip I found on those rear door seals is don’t push them back on too far after pulling them off to carpet. When I did mine, I was under the impression they had to go back all the way, and I even tapped them back with a mallet. They leaked. I pulled them back out about 5mm all the way round- no leaks.
A top tip I found on those rear door seals is don’t push them back on too far after pulling them off to carpet. When I did mine, I was under the impression they had to go back all the way, and I even tapped them back with a mallet. They leaked. I pulled them back out about 5mm all the way round- no leaks.
Looking good. My LWB took about a year in total, mainly down to cash. Well worth it, even the wife loves it now after months of not being convinced. Enjoy the buildOh I do love time off - always things to tinker withgotta order some hidden trim clips, but the carpets progressing.
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It’s been several weeks since my last confession - or rather forum update but Xmas/work/travel & childcare has put a significant spanner in the works! Thankfully the festive slowdown has meant I could progress the “what to do next” tasks I also had pending.
So ‘pop top’s’ - from Reimo to unnamed other brands, I’ve secured quotes from £2.5k & 1 day fitting to £8.7k & 7 days. For sure the most expensive one looks good (see image) & some nice features, but it’s all a bloody minefield IMHO. The differences just don’t justify the expensive as it’s mostly an ‘as supplied kit’ these days (Not like the 90’s T25 I did) & so I’ll be going to the middle ground with a local firm I expect.
Now ‘beds’ are a similar story - again from Rock n roll to Rib, brand new to second hand. - I’ve looked at lots & noted costs from £0.7 to £3k - When you add upholstery (£500+) to the basic quotes & chassis plates (£150 plus fitting that are compulsory for the T6) it’s more like £1.6k to £3.4k. Given the seat will be used a lot, I’m going RIB 130 fitted as it’s not much saving to DIY when I add in the access hassle factory/cold.
Finally ‘flooring’ - now this was a surprise as one firm will not touch my van unless a 1 piece 12mm floor is fitted by them at £700 with FOC contrax liner supplied by me! Another says that it needs a 1 piece 9mm from them is fine (£120 suppled or £250 fitted) & I can fit my own contrax liner - I also considered building my own 12mm x 1 piece with beach ply sheet (10’ x 5’) costing £170 collected + say 2 hrs to router it out…..or 9mm x 1 piece (£120 collected) as there seams to be no standard in this area & the “crash test needs it” comment just doesn’t stack up (Long story - but I used to crash test cars for a living - if it needed this for the test pass it would be compulsory & clearly stated)
As such I now plan to fit my existing 3 piece x 9mm ply floor (biscuit jointed & glued) but then cross skin it with 2 piece x 3mm to ensure a good smooth base before the Altro contrax - I hope I’ve made a good decision - it might change still? Time to check out the forum!
but Xmas/work/travel & childcare has put a significant spanner in the works! Thankfully the festive slowdown has meant I could progress the “what to do next” tasks I also had pending.So ‘pop top’s’ - from Reimo to unnamed other brands, I’ve secured quotes from £2.5k & 1 day fitting to £8.7k & 7 days. For sure the most expensive one looks good (see image) & some nice features, but it’s all a bloody minefield IMHO. The differences just don’t justify the expensive as it’s mostly an ‘as supplied kit’ these days (Not like the 90’s T25 I did) & so I’ll be going to the middle ground with a local firm I expect.
Now ‘beds’ are a similar story - again from Rock n roll to Rib, brand new to second hand. - I’ve looked at lots & noted costs from £0.7 to £3k - When you add upholstery (£500+) to the basic quotes & chassis plates (£150 plus fitting that are compulsory for the T6) it’s more like £1.6k to £3.4k. Given the seat will be used a lot, I’m going RIB 130 fitted as it’s not much saving to DIY when I add in the access hassle factory/cold.
Finally ‘flooring’ - now this was a surprise as one firm will not touch my van unless a 1 piece 12mm floor is fitted by them at £700 with FOC contrax liner supplied by me! Another says that it needs a 1 piece 9mm from them is fine (£120 suppled or £250 fitted) & I can fit my own contrax liner - I also considered building my own 12mm x 1 piece with beach ply sheet (10’ x 5’) costing £170 collected + say 2 hrs to router it out…..or 9mm x 1 piece (£120 collected) as there seams to be no standard in this area
& the “crash test needs it” comment just doesn’t stack up (Long story - but I used to crash test cars for a living - if it needed this for the test pass it would be compulsory & clearly stated)As such I now plan to fit my existing 3 piece x 9mm ply floor (biscuit jointed & glued) but then cross skin it with 2 piece x 3mm to ensure a good smooth base before the Altro contrax - I hope I’ve made a good decision - it might change still? Time to check out the forum!
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Curtains fitted today - when the firms say ‘some fitting required’ they actually mean they haven’t bent the profile section to anywhere near the shape you need & so you should expect to form it yourself with the mallet! Then spend some more time resetting the slot width to allow smooth operation ;( …… I’d go blinds next time!
As you can see the rear doors are horrid - I will check the supplied units are correct I ordered 2018 T6, they sent 2003 > 2015 T5? Are they the same?
As you can see the rear doors are horrid - I will check the supplied units are correct I ordered 2018 T6, they sent 2003 > 2015 T5? Are they the same?
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Trimmed the ply liner back by about 5mm around the arch’s as the dodo mat & carpet has already been fitted. Now looking forward to screwing down & installing the liner.
Pop tops booked in & opted for the deluxe bed as the one luxury, else it’s the base Austops model in gloss back going in end of feb.
Also trimmed back the slide door step - with 9mm ply only the OE one fits back ok.
And removed the VW roof rack I only installed the other month - never used it but doesn’t fit when pops in, so that’s now for sale.
The screws shear easy! Thankfully landrover owners are used to this irritation - so thread extracted before the 2nd cuppa was finished
Pop tops booked in & opted for the deluxe bed as the one luxury, else it’s the base Austops model in gloss back going in end of feb.
Also trimmed back the slide door step - with 9mm ply only the OE one fits back ok.
And removed the VW roof rack I only installed the other month - never used it but doesn’t fit when pops in, so that’s now for sale.
The screws shear easy! Thankfully landrover owners are used to this irritation - so thread extracted before the 2nd cuppa was finished
Really not comfortable with my original plan to fit the existing 9mm thick 3 piece floor (it would need to be screwed down to prevent relative movement & even then might move) or spend over and above for a supplied one (raw sheets are as low as £47 if your in Liverpool or London) when I have the tools to cut it myself.
So I have purchased a big (10ft x 5ft) single sheet at 1/2” (12.7mm) thick for £70 collected & will just DIY.
Moral of this one - shop about & the plans the plan till the plan changes!
So I have purchased a big (10ft x 5ft) single sheet at 1/2” (12.7mm) thick for £70 collected & will just DIY.
Moral of this one - shop about & the plans the plan till the plan changes!
Good choice I'd say
Harrison’s trim supplies do a special spray adhesive with low organic solvent content, so it doesn’t migrate into the vinyl.
This is what I used
www.harrisonstrimsupplies.co.uk
Contact Adheshive
500ml can of Contact Adhesive is the first product from the new generation of synthetic rubber resin adhesives Its high solids low solvent formula
And that’s the floor fitted! Very happy with that job out of the way & a few biscuits used to join the RHS tangs (You can’t fit then all within the 10x5 sheet BTW)
Because of the negative draft near the mid tie down point on the LHS/NSF it’s far easier to drop the LHS in first & rotate clockwise to fit as you push it forward.
Now time to get designing the units in CAD whilst I wait for the pop top to be fitted at the end of the month.
Because of the negative draft near the mid tie down point on the LHS/NSF it’s far easier to drop the LHS in first & rotate clockwise to fit as you push it forward.
Now time to get designing the units in CAD whilst I wait for the pop top to be fitted at the end of the month.
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