Digitaldug
New Member
Thanks CarreraRSR. Are you saying that the gasket should be on the high pressure side? Sorry, it’s not obvious to me which side (top or bottom of blanking plate) that is for the left and right pipe.
2016 180PS Bi-TDi CFCA engine failure
- Thread starter venables
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- 180ps bi-tdi cfca engine egr
No need to remove the oil filter.
On the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the EGR: the gasket goes against the pipe face.
On the pipe between the EGR and the inlet: the gasket goes on the pipe face on the lower flange.
It helps to slightly loosen the top flange on the front pipe to get enough movement to get the blanks in.
On the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the EGR: the gasket goes against the pipe face.
On the pipe between the EGR and the inlet: the gasket goes on the pipe face on the lower flange.
It helps to slightly loosen the top flange on the front pipe to get enough movement to get the blanks in.
I have a T6 BiTDI so does this mean I won’t have this problem as all I see said is don’t touch a bi turbo but no real idea why? Appreciate any help.
The T6 bitdi hasn't got the same issues as the T5 but a whole new range of them!
Such as?
I have a 2017, T6.1 with the 204ps BiTDi engine and this has had an EGR cooler failure! This was at around 30k miles. Emulsion in the oil filler was evident so took it to VW dealer who changed the EGR valve and told me it would be OK now. What I didn't realise at the time (but certainly do now) was that irrepairable damage had already been done to the engine as a result of the failure. Not long after this the oil consumption was noticeably getting worse and this affected the DPF and SCR such that the engine warning light illuminated. System flushes by the dealer only resulted in a short term "fix" because after about 60 miles the engine warning light (orange) illuminated again.
Dealer wanted ca. £15k to replace the engine and VW customer service UK refused to discuss the problem.
I am now looking at stripping and re-building the engine but am concerned that it may require more than a re-bore and new pistons and rings. If other major comp
onents are also damaged, e.g. turbos then the total rebuild cost at retail prices could end up approaching the VW quote.
Does anyone have any experience of doing a rebuild after this type of damage and how extensive was the damage?
Does anyone know a reputable organisation that does rebuilds or exchange engines?
Dealer wanted ca. £15k to replace the engine and VW customer service UK refused to discuss the problem.
I am now looking at stripping and re-building the engine but am concerned that it may require more than a re-bore and new pistons and rings. If other major comp
onents are also damaged, e.g. turbos then the total rebuild cost at retail prices could end up approaching the VW quote.
Does anyone have any experience of doing a rebuild after this type of damage and how extensive was the damage?
Does anyone know a reputable organisation that does rebuilds or exchange engines?
Very sorry to hear your story. Unbelievable that the dealer refused warranty. I hope you will be able to get it back on the road.
I’d say that there will be more to repair than the cylinders, the longer the water is in the engine the worse the corrosion, the longer it was driven in that condition the worse the wear.
Unless you are doing the work yourself you will probably be better off with a new / re-con short engine and get the turbocharger assembly stripped asap and survey the damage.
It’s worth noting that the CXEB EGR cooler failure mechanism is not the same as the common CFCA problem and there is no link.
Probably worth moving your CXEB content off this CFCA content to avoid confusion.
Well, finally, the engine is being fitted and had a look around the old engine before it goes back. Oh my god, I can't believe the amount of damage it has caused. It's buggered the turbo, crank seal bearings, and everything else that oil has come in contact with. But the crazy thing is it drove lovely used no oil or hardly anything so to the unsuspecting person it was OK. Only the occasional puff of smoke when setting off and the odd oil drips made me delve deeper. Can't wait to drive it because if it drove great like that, it should be amazing when done. Just not looking forward to the bill even at mates rates. Here's a picture of the Inlet and my poor van
UVW_T6
Member
@B.different , Which company refurbished your engine?
I have the CXEB as I mentioned above, and I was worried about the bore wear issue. Following an oil analysis by Miller Oils, there seems to be no evidence of particulate in the oil, but the turbo is definitely not right. I'm planning to pull the lump out and have the turbo refurbished, and fix up the EGR and DPF before refitting the engine. Currently not reckoning to refurb the engine...
Any more of your story would be welcome
I have the CXEB as I mentioned above, and I was worried about the bore wear issue. Following an oil analysis by Miller Oils, there seems to be no evidence of particulate in the oil, but the turbo is definitely not right. I'm planning to pull the lump out and have the turbo refurbished, and fix up the EGR and DPF before refitting the engine. Currently not reckoning to refurb the engine...
Any more of your story would be welcome
The engine is fresh from vw. The turbo what we thought was good with how it drives was ment to be just a quick clean and dyno test at falcon turbos sheffield. When they got it they said it was buggered so whilst they had it they are doing a full overhaul. Was going to fit a new turbo but we both thought it was a waste of money, that was before they had tested it at falcon. Darkside developments were the cheapest place for a new oem turbo, way cheaper than tps even with a 28% trade discount.
UVW_T6
Member
Thanks, good to know.
My turbo is a brand new one that started squeaking shortly after getting the vehicle back from the garage that replaced it. I should get it looked at under warranty, but there's no way that garage is ever going to touch my vehicle again. I reckon it's going to be well worth refurbishing. I had been worried that the squeal was caused by the DPF issue, as was the previous turbo failure (at only 50K miles!) but must have just been a premature fail on the initial one, and incompetent refit on the new one. Fingers crossed the refurb and DPF fix will be enough to keep her going for another 100K miles!
My turbo is a brand new one that started squeaking shortly after getting the vehicle back from the garage that replaced it. I should get it looked at under warranty, but there's no way that garage is ever going to touch my vehicle again. I reckon it's going to be well worth refurbishing. I had been worried that the squeal was caused by the DPF issue, as was the previous turbo failure (at only 50K miles!) but must have just been a premature fail on the initial one, and incompetent refit on the new one. Fingers crossed the refurb and DPF fix will be enough to keep her going for another 100K miles!
I've never personally used them but my mechanic uses them all the time and never had any problems with them. If you get in touch do it through Facebook as they respond quicker. Whilst it's off might as well get the dpf back cleaned for extra peace of mind
How many miles if you don't mind me asking? With or without egr blanked?
105 without it blanked off. But don't worry after 400 miles, it will be along with a new custom exhaust
oh how I love losing money 
oh how I love losing money I'm just deciding what to do with our 180. Looking at the Millers tests you can see the Al content is high (even at three years old), Fe not too bad and on the 2024 test Boron has appeared. Looking at the Millers sheet I can't understand where this has come from. No additives, no water leaks and I can't see how how brake fluid would get in.
I am getting a compression test done this week and will decide what to after I've seen the results. VWs allowable compression seems woefully low though and I'm sure something that low would be bad news for performance and economy.
The van is a 2014 Cali, bought new by us and serviced so far every year (apart from Covid) by a dealer. At the last service it seems there was recall on EGR software but they were unable to tell me what it was for. May be coincidence but the van seems more sluggish and lacking torque after this update. Currently on 75k miles. Using only a minimal amount of oil, the level has dropped about 3mm on the dipstick after around 1100 miles since the service so it's not yet drastic.
Depending on the compression results I will either fit a Tafmet if its not too bad or if it's low a new VW engine from Darkside or our local specialist and get them to fit the Tafmet while doing it. One advantage of getting a new VW unit is that you get new injectors. Apparently it's still refurb but by VW to original spec.
I see that Darkside sell an alternative Pierburg EGR valve which I seem to recall reading somewhere that it is stainless rather than alloy, Can anyone confirm yes or no?. If it's stainless then it could be a viable alternative.
I am getting a compression test done this week and will decide what to after I've seen the results. VWs allowable compression seems woefully low though and I'm sure something that low would be bad news for performance and economy.
The van is a 2014 Cali, bought new by us and serviced so far every year (apart from Covid) by a dealer. At the last service it seems there was recall on EGR software but they were unable to tell me what it was for. May be coincidence but the van seems more sluggish and lacking torque after this update. Currently on 75k miles. Using only a minimal amount of oil, the level has dropped about 3mm on the dipstick after around 1100 miles since the service so it's not yet drastic.
Depending on the compression results I will either fit a Tafmet if its not too bad or if it's low a new VW engine from Darkside or our local specialist and get them to fit the Tafmet while doing it. One advantage of getting a new VW unit is that you get new injectors. Apparently it's still refurb but by VW to original spec.
I see that Darkside sell an alternative Pierburg EGR valve which I seem to recall reading somewhere that it is stainless rather than alloy, Can anyone confirm yes or no?. If it's stainless then it could be a viable alternative.
The vw unit comes complete with egr and glow plugs as well as injectors. But It doesn't come with a water pump or the inlet manifold, and that's on back order indefinitely, apparently. If like mine, you will need a turbo as the oil has worn both shafts beyond repair, which has started to leak as well. I'm hoping to be getting it back tomorrow, which I can't wait. As I've said in my other posts about it, it drove lovely and pulled like a train and used hardly any oil. If you go down the new engine route just blank the egr off after it's run in.
Has anyone else seen the engine go in to limp mode with an overboost error and having a tafmet fitted? Fitted the tafmet about 2 years back, yesterday got the dreaded flashing coil on the dash.
3 garages are not happy to look at it with the tafmet fitted, one even said it could be the cause of the error.
I’ve driven 60 miles since clearing the error and it’s not yet come back, but we have a road trip planned next week to Italy and all of a sudden I’m deeply regretting buying a van with a CFCA engine
3 garages are not happy to look at it with the tafmet fitted, one even said it could be the cause of the error.
I’ve driven 60 miles since clearing the error and it’s not yet come back, but we have a road trip planned next week to Italy and all of a sudden I’m deeply regretting buying a van with a CFCA engine
