L/Battery - go large or go lithium?
- Thread starter Chris1983
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- dc - dc charger victron vsr
Mate, don’t follow me hahha absolute Luddite propped up by some experts here!!
Is this what I’d need for Solar back to front?
You don't need 16mm², that's way overkill. Your MPPT is only the 15a model, 6mm² is fine.
And you only need to redo the positive cable.
As a suggestion, when you do find a route through front to back pull in some additional live singles and possibly a blue 3 core arctic flex 1.5 or 2.5 mm2 if you want a 230 hook up fed skt next to the drivers seat.
On my Redline conversion the only original leisure wiring I kept was the feed to the fridge and Webasto as they were under the drivers seat in a rats nest similar to that Hillside Birchover mess you had and the actual cable runs were less than a metre long so could be belled out to confirm they hadn't been spliced multiple times.
On my Redline conversion the only original leisure wiring I kept was the feed to the fridge and Webasto as they were under the drivers seat in a rats nest similar to that Hillside Birchover mess you had and the actual cable runs were less than a metre long so could be belled out to confirm they hadn't been spliced multiple times.
Only had to drill one hole……
But
Ran a temporary wire all the way through. Solar reconnected. To positive and negative bus bar under driver seat.
I’ve got a bigger gauge wire coming tomorrow, presume I can just reattached local ground and run positive pulled same way as the temporary wire.
Presume a fuse on this sensible, what size is best? Presume near mppt
And I found a bad crimp (mine) had come off positive bus bar, so now all is back as was! Bloody long day of it!!
Do the following numbers look as they should?
But
Ran a temporary wire all the way through. Solar reconnected. To positive and negative bus bar under driver seat.
I’ve got a bigger gauge wire coming tomorrow, presume I can just reattached local ground and run positive pulled same way as the temporary wire.
Presume a fuse on this sensible, what size is best? Presume near mppt
And I found a bad crimp (mine) had come off positive bus bar, so now all is back as was! Bloody long day of it!!
Do the following numbers look as they should?
Yeah that's looking better, I presume the van is in the shade?
The voltage is still a bit out but that could just be the cable run length. The amps the MPPT is pushing and the shunt is seeing match.
Oh and of course your shunt will need syncing - once you've done the settings, manually set the SOC to match what the battery BMS says. Then once it actually hits 100% it should sync back up.
Current spade in line fuse from solar is 15amp.
With the wire cross section increasing to 6mm you linked BUT the loads remaining the same. Would a 15amp midi fuse still work (I have some of these) or do I need to go bigger?
Is there an easy reference chart you guys use?
With the wire cross section increasing to 6mm you linked BUT the loads remaining the same. Would a 15amp midi fuse still work (I have some of these) or do I need to go bigger?
Is there an easy reference chart you guys use?
You need to go by the victron recommended sizes, for a 15a MPPT that's likely to be a 20a fuse.
Edit: yep - 20a or 25a
Edit: yep - 20a or 25a
Yes, the fuse on the cable needs to go right next to your busbar, it's there to protect the cable run from shorts. The fuse on the MPPT only protects the device.
I posted one earlier in the thread. Fuse needs to be higher than the planned current or it will keep blowing, but less than the max cable capacity or it isn’t protecting the cable. Remember, the fuse is to protect the cable from catching fire if it is overloaded (e.g. a short circuit providing max battery amperage).
Example:
15A charger
60A capable cable
Use a 20A fuse.
The fuse needs to be at the LB end of the cable run. Sorry if that’s what you mean but there was talk of a pos busbar at the rear.
Ah yes, I meant next to the LB bus bar, not the one at the rear.
This is how my voltages show across the various boxes. Engine running, Orion off and solar panels isolated. Shunt and Orion are with the LB under the passenger seat, MPPT in the rear offside wardrobe (about 3m of cable away).
Chris - as you can see the voltages are exactly the same (or sometimes very, very close - within 0.02ish) so it’s achievable with a spread out system. In slower time it’s worth checking the older cables are of suitable cross-section (see the chart I posted a few pages ago) and all the crimps are good to minimise voltage drop. You don’t need exactly the same numbers but closer the better and certainly within 3%. See how it goes once you get the 6mm2 cable in.
Yeah the voltage should definitely be within margin of error, so there may be some other issue or loose connection.
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