Orion 12/12/18 keeps switching off

Voltages now look much better indeed.

That said, as there were some pretty wild variations and we don't know what exactly you did in between of different screenshots there's a nonzero chance that the problems return. Keep your eye on it in the near future and let's hope it all works out!
 
So obviously finding and fixing loose wires really important. And I THINK numbers are closer together, but when driving. Not so.

When engine off, very much so. Any ideas? Need to worry? (I recalibrated battery at 100% Soc as per Bluetooth battery info)

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And I do think when the alternator kicks in for DC to DC. This superseded solar. Should that be the case? Would have thought both could feed into battery in parallel?
 
Should I ask the question of Victron or is the issue my install rather than settings (presume so)
 
DC-DC won’t over ride the solar, any output from them will combine (e.g. 18A Orion and 5A MPPT should show as 23A on the shunt (and Fogstar app) minus any load.

Do you have an isolation switch between your solar panel and MPPT? If so switch it off so you can focus on DC-DC and shunt to start with. I have a feeling the MPPT may have itself in a tiss, likely because at one stage the LB has been disconnected from it while the panel was producing power - the panel should always be disconnected first, or connected last.

Second, there is still something not quite right with the wiring. Particularly the shunt. Is the little red wire from it to the LB properly connected and the fuse holder done up properly?

Finally, make sure both Orion and MPPT are set to the correct parameters for the LB. Either start with the smart lithium preset or use a custom one with the settings given on the Fogstar FAQ page.
 
Yes, isolator is on Solar but on last tinker may have forgotten to turn off panel whilst doing stuff.

When the DC to dc kicks in the Solar stops (according to MPPT data on Victron screen). 18amp charging.

When I stop the engine (and thus dc to DC) the solar wattage comes online again.
 
shunt chassis side should be really really close to zero and 0.35V (0.68V - 0.33V) over the shunt sounds high as well.

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500A/50mV here means the voltage over the shunt is 50mV when the current is 500A. So, 35mV voltage difference over it's poles would mean 350A :eek:. Obviously this is not true or you would have one smoking van and in the not-so-great meaning of the expression.

I think the voltage measurements with multimeter can't be true - maybe there's some oxidation, sometimes you need to push the multimeter probes quite hard to get a good connection.

Still, seeing almost any voltage differences on the negative measurement points make me really suspicious of the grounding. Any bad connections on the negative side could easily explain the weird voltages.
 
Is the MPPT the problem thus?
Hard to see how. Like @ginkster suggested cut it off entirely until you are 100% sure the basic charging works as expected under all conditions. Elimination is a powerful technique - I would almost say remove that 40A fuse as well to eliminate anything in the consumer circuits as well.
 
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