Valence U27-12XP Lifepo4 Lithium Battery -- How We Done It --

[Dellmassive]

just bagged myself one of these . . . . . .

Download Data Sheets - Lithium Werks

Valence GREEN Lithium LiFePO4 BATTERY 138Ah 12.8v with internal BMS
Sold with 6 MONTH WARRANTY !!

rated at 4000 cycles plus (logs show only 400 cycles used)

12v 138Ah LifePO4 (thats the equivalent on of almost 3x100aH AGM`s with 50% DOD)

Dimensions: 31cm wide * 22cm tall * 17cm back to front. Can be installed on its side.Charged/discharged to 80% every day they would last more than 12 years with No maintenance.

it should fit under drivers seat on its side. . . . .

They are ideal as leisure batteries (charging direct from alternator or solar) - ill use DC-DC/Solar with Lifepo4 charging profile.

These will discharge at up to 150 amps continuously at near constant voltage. This makes them as good in the real world as two lead acid gel batteries of the same capacity which would only last a fraction of the life - 150A discharge rate with no sag !!! - time to get the big inverter back out !!!

ill make up my own USB/RS485 for the built in BMS to check and test the battery . . . . .



*********************************

U-Charge® XP for 12V, 24V, 36V, 48V up to 1kV Battery


.


.




.



.



.



.


Discharge Temperature -10 °C to 50 °C
Charge Temperature 0 °C to 45 °C
Self Discharge @ 25 °C < 2% per month
Specific Energy 92 Wh/kg
Energy Density 150 Wh/l
Voltage (nominal) 12.8 V
Capacity @ C/5, 25 °C (typical) 118 Ah
Energy 1.51 kWh
Discharge Cont./Peak (30 sec) 150 A / 300 A
Discharge Cutoff Voltage 10 V
Recommended Charge Voltage 14.6 V
Charge Float Voltage Range 13.8 - 14.6 V
Recommended Charge CCCV ≤ 59 A to 14.6 V
E



.....


Height (excluding bolts) 225 mm 8.86”
Width 172 mm 6.77”
Length 260 mm 10.23”
Weight 16.3 ± 0.1 kg 35.8 lbs
Cell Configuration 4IFpR27/66-36
Terminal Hardware M8 x 1.25
Terminal Torque 25 Nm 222 in-lbs
Plastic Case Flame Retardant
IP Rating IP56



=====================



FYI the above green batteries are the V2 versions.


there are also the Black V1 versions. . . . .

greens are 138ah, blacks 130ah.
they have different BMS connectors.

 

[Dellmassive]

Battery is in.... all looking good so far.

 

[Dellmassive]

Low Battery Disconnect - Battery Protect :

these are basically self contained units that are ready to be fitted.

the are wired inline with the battery positive feed (on the load side) just after the fuse and are normally programmable (the low volt disconnect point).

you would set the low voltage cutoff as specified by your battery manufacturer and thats that.... . . . .

when the battery voltage drops to the set-point for a set duration the internal relay disconnects the battery from any loads. . . . . . . (untill the voltage rises again after being charged)

some solar controllers have this feature built into them . . . . but they are normally current limited (fairly low, like 10A-30A) so thye below examples are for 65A and 100A examples.

Not sure why the duritre one is listed so pricey . . . . but the victron units below are more average priced.

heres the victron demo . . . . .





.


and . . . .

 

[Dellmassive]

Dellmassive said:
Battery is in.... all looking good so far.


View attachment 50742 View attachment 50743 View attachment 50744

The testing and BMS monitor is done, the battery looks like a good one.

here is the battery as delivered. . . . it shows 12.8V, but it actually almost flat. (cell @ 3.2v)

this is the battery BMS diagnostic lead i made up . . . . .

and this is the 150A inline power meter monitoring whats going on . . .

i used a Victron 12/15A charger on lithium mode to start charging . . . .

it maxed out the charger @ 15A until it got too hot and shut down to trickle charge . . . . !

so i added a second 15A NoCo G15000 charger, again same thing - maxed out @ 15A

i had the power monitor and the BMS was reporting a full 30A charge current going in . . . . thats all i had to hand.

The Valence U27-12XP will take a charge upto 70A !!! the these Lithium battery's are almost like a dead short on the chargers and will suck in all they can get.

the plan is to fit a Redarc BCDC1250D from @travelvolts when they arrive, which has a 50A charge capacity. (runing on the OEM 80/100A original SCR cables)

This is what we had after a few charging sessions.

all green with no faults showing.

SOC is reported @ 100% and didnt drop over night.

I've kept the charger connected and above 98% the charge current starts to reduce . . .15/12/10/8/6/5/4/2/1A . . all the way down to 0.1A

It looks like the internal BMS is now trying to "top balance" the cells around 3.4v-3.6v

one thing to note is that the battery spec calls for 14.6v for the top charge . . . .

but both chargers have 14.2v as there set Lithium program? (the Redarc shows 14.5v)

****************************************************

valence xp U27-12xp


battery specs.


Bulk 14.6v (3.65V PER CELL)

Absob 14.6v (3.65V PER CELL)

Float 13.8v (min 3.45v per cell)


C-rate. c/2 70A

*********************************************

charger specs:

Victron charge:

Li-on mode

Bulk 14.2v/15A

Absorb 14.2v/15A

Float 13.5v

******************

Noco charge

Bulk 14.2v / 15A

Absorb 14.2v / 15A

float

*************************


Redarc dc-dc charge. (bcdc1250d)

Bulk 14.5v / 50A

Absorb 14.5v / 50A

Float 13.6v


***********************
heres some pics showing battery now full at 14.1 and the two chargers i used.

*****

any questions?

*****

 

[Dellmassive]

travelvolts said:
It is worth checking with the manufacturer if your chosen battery is suitable for laying on the side. I have noticed that this information changes for some when not in a stationary application.

Yeh, its down to the internal BMS location within the battery (as it generates heat when balancing) ( so its preferred to be at the top . . . .ish)

for example the valance U27-12XP can go on its side . . . . but the terminal must be at the top.

 

[Dellmassive]

Part2 - Capacity testing.

LBD (Low Battery disconnect) and Lifepo4 capacity testing . . . .

let me start by saying I've been playing with Lithium batteries for years, from RC LiPo`s to laptop/Vape stick 18650`s and also large scale 12v installs for ICE and large inverters. . . . BUT these large capacity Lifepo4`s are freeking awesome !!!. . . (I love this one so much, I've just sold a kidney and bought a second one - Valence U27-12XP 12.8V @ 138ah)

Lifepo4 batteries are not cheap on the upfront cost, but are way cheaper over the TCO over a longer period vs lead acid and they are way cooler and have awesome energy density.

So to get one on the cheap i decided to buy a used one . . . . now they were advertised as 400 out of 4000 cycles used. But being realistic and knowing ebay i expected a real life battery to be 20% life used so to have a 80% life capacity left . . . so 80% of 138ah should give me 110Ah, though i would be happy for even 100ah. . . . the results at the end are shocking. !!!

The test procedure was to use a separate current meter to monitor the Ah and wh leaving the battery, next was to draw power from the battery.

i started with a 800va Victron inverter and a few 240v 18V makita battery chargers, a 240v 50W desk lamp and a 240v 360W dehumidifier . . . . these all summed up to around 50Amps being drawn from the battery.


This how its setup. the current monitor is on the left and connected to the meter next to it.

heres the inverter, lamp and one of the chargers:

next was a separate volt meter to double check the settings/readings:

Now it was just a matter of time . . . . i had the LBD connected and would shut down the loads at 11.25v, so all i needed to do was run the loads until the LBD cut out and them read the ah used. . . . simples.


i started at 3.30pm battery voltage was 13.2v and i was drawing 50A continuously . . . .

due to the chargers and dehumidifier cycling the power drawn was fluctuating . . . .

1- But by 4.20pm we had drawn 31.AH and 394WH (1:43hrs runtime)

2- by 5:15pm we had drawn 63.AH and 797WH (2:36hrs runtime)

This is the laptop monitoring the battery, its showing 55amps discharge and still 98% full !!

3- But by 6pm things were starting to get interesting. we had drawn 96.AH and 1212WH (3.21hrs runtime) (still drwaing 50Amps!!!!)

The next check blew my mind . . . .

4 - But by 6.43pm we had drawn 129.AH and 1638WH (4:01hrs runtime)

the battery stats were still good, and we were still at around 12.0V . . . . (still drawing 50Amps !!)

The next check point it finally happened . . . . . . . The Victron LDB had kicked in and disconnected the loads @ 11.1vdc . . . .

so what were the results?

5- by 6.52pm we had drawn 137.AH and 1730WH (4:10hrs runtime)

hold on WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT !!!!


50A draw (cycling)
137ah
1730wh
for 4.10 hours



thats astounding , , , , drawing 50A for hours and hours !!!

and the second hand battery !!! well

137ah/138ah * 100 = 99.27%

so not only is the battery still working as NEW but its also proved that it can deliver its 99% discharge capacity to the 11.2v cutoff point.

im sure if i was drawing less that the 50A load i could easily exceed the 138Ah capacity.



The next step was the recharge . . . . . . but having a 15A victron charger, that was a bit slower.....

back in the office:

with this charger:

and this monitor:

i left it over night . . .

during the test i managed to discharge @ 50A which took 4 hours . . . the battery is rated for 150A continuous !!!

the recharge @ 15A to all night and is still going now . . . . but again is capable of charging at 70A !!!!



Conclusion:

These batteries are freeking awsome.

The available discharge rate is freeking awsome.

The available recharge rate is freeking awsome.

the ability to power large loads with 100% DOD & and very low volt sag is freeking awsome.

The upfront cost of the is NOT freeking awsome.




Notes:
Im using a Victron LBD to protect from Low voltage damage
im using a Victron BMV + MTTP with temp control to protect from LTD low temp charging

Dont use those breaker bimetallic trip type switches for high amp loads !!!! i had a 150A trip switch and was only pulling 50A but it started heating up (long duration loads) , the cable started heating up each side of the trip switch from thermal conductivity . . . . . so use appropriate MIDI style fuses . . . . im now replacing ALL trrip style circuit breakers with MIDI fuses!!!

************************************************************************

another net effect of this full charge/discharge/charge cycle is that the internal cells are now fully in balance, before they were over 12mV out . . . . now they are 1mV out . . . . which is good.

The internal BMS monitors each cell bank:

1-3358mV
2-3359mV
3-3358mV
4-3358mV

the warning point is any cell bank more than 10mV out . . . . at which point the BMS will attempt to balance the bank.

There is a "TOP Balance" and "BOTTOM balance" which refers to the fully charged and discharged state . . . . so an occasional full charge-discharge-charge can be good for cell balancing . . . . but use your BMS monitoring software to keep an eye on things.


************************************************************************

i was soooo impressed i sold my kidney, sole to the devil, my left arm to science and went and bought a second one off the same ebay seller . . . . . . hopefully the testing will prove that both batteries are 99% fresh and new (plus with a 6mnth warranty....i hope so)

************************************************************************-


over to you lot . . . any other testing you want me to do?

any questions?




end.

 

[Dellmassive]

yes this is true. full DOD will reduce the total amount of cycles and is in proportion to the amount of discharge. . . .

the odd full discharge to ballance cells is ok . . say once a month or when needed.

but in real life you should spec your battery bank so that you never deplete it less than 50% before its recharged . . . less that 80% would give the longest lifetime . . . but that just not practical

>4000 cycles (80% DOD)

here is the DOD discharge curve @ C/2.

U-Charge® XP for 12V, 24V, 36V, 48V up to 1kV Battery

*********************************

SOC Alignment
SOC Alignment occurs at charge complete, after all cell blocks have balanced. To optimize the performance of the battery pack this should be done as often as possible. The minimum recommended is at least once a month.

Capacity Learning
Valence modules continuously learn their own capacity. A periodic discharge to 20% SOC followed by charge complete cycle will optimize this process

**********************************


also include the full manual which i found a fascinating read and has a wealth of information. (pdf attached below)

.

Attachments

• Valence.pdf
  3.6 MBViews: 5
• U27-12XP-Data-Sheet-082819.pdf
  1.5 MBViews: 8

 

[Dellmassive]

can everyone see the pictures . . . . ?


(from the posts i copied over from the other thread?






***

 

[Dellmassive]

ill repost #17


here is some more info on the Valence batteries . . .



they are


30cm * 17cm * 23cm (L*W*H)








.
....


this battery fits under the single seat base standing up . .








...


so the valence is 23/24cm high (compaired to the other 19/20cm)

that means it needs to be fitted lying down on its side. . . . .


>>>>>



has anyone got a pic of a Valence sitting under the seat yet?


iv not got around to dealing with mine yet.

 

[DXX]

The testing and BMS monitor is done, the battery looks like a good one.

here is the battery as delivered. . . . it shows 12.8V, but it actually almost flat. (cell @ 3.2v)

this is the battery BMS diagnostic lead i made up . . . . .

and this is the 150A inline power meter monitoring whats going on . . .

i used a Victron 12/15A charger on lithium mode to start charging . . . .

it maxed out the charger @ 15A until it got too hot and shut down to trickle charge . . . . !

so i added a second 15A NoCo G15000 charger, again same thing - maxed out @ 15A

i had the power monitor and the BMS was reporting a full 30A charge current going in . . . . thats all i had to hand.

The Valence U27-12XP will take a charge upto 70A !!! the these Lithium battery's are almost like a dead short on the chargers and will suck in all they can get.

the plan is to fit a Redarc BCDC1250D from @travelvolts when they arrive, which has a 50A charge capacity. (runing on the OEM 80/100A original SCR cables)

This is what we had after a few charging sessions.

all green with no faults showing.

SOC is reported @ 100% and didnt drop over night.

I've kept the charger connected and above 98% the charge current starts to reduce . . .15/12/10/8/6/5/4/2/1A . . all the way down to 0.1A

It looks like the internal BMS is now trying to "top balance" the cells around 3.4v-3.6v

one thing to note is that the battery spec calls for 14.6v for the top charge . . . .

but both chargers have 14.2v as there set Lithium program? (the Redarc shows 14.5v)

****************************************************

valence xp U27-12xp


battery specs.


Bulk 14.6v (3.65V PER CELL)

Absob 14.6v (3.65V PER CELL)

Float 13.8v (min 3.45v per cell)


C-rate. c/2 70A

*********************************************

charger specs:

Victron charge:

Li-on mode

Bulk 14.2v/15A

Absorb 14.2v/15A

Float 13.5v

******************

Noco charge

Bulk 14.2v / 15A

Absorb 14.2v / 15A

float

*************************


Redarc dc-dc charge. (bcdc1250d)

Bulk 14.5v / 50A

Absorb 14.5v / 50A

Float 13.6v


***********************
heres some pics showing battery now full at 14.1 and the two chargers i used.

*****

any questions?

*****

I just read an article stating that a lead / battery charger could be used on a LiFePo4 but never use one with an automatic Equalisation mode - that’s my lead / acic charger out of the question so I’m looking to buy a charger suitable for the Valence U27-12XP V2 with LiFePo4 mode.
The Victron chargers automatically reduce output current if the the charger starts to overheat, from what I read this isn’t ideal as the LiFePo4 requires constant current.
I’m going to be cycling the battery down to minimum safe voltage as it will be operating an outboard motor with no charging while in use. When it does get charged I’m not too bothered about how long it takes but I read that the 15A Victron charger overheated when you used it.
The U27-12XP V2 can charge at C/2; 138Ah / 2, this requires a big charger but like I say I’m in no rush to charge and don’t want to spend more on a bigger capacity charger than I need to provide a constant current charge without charger overheating.
I’m considering the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12/25, BPC122513006. Do you think 25A is enough capacity to charge a 20% SOC battery in one hit without overheating?

 

[ched]

Here's my experience with making a cable to communicate with the Valence XP:

My quest didn't get off to the best of starts, as upon receiving my USB Rs485 adapter cable from Amazon, I could see that it was a 6-way/wire as appose to the 4-way required by the AMP connector on the battery itself – this is despite the product image on Amazon showing 4 wires:

USB Rs485 Adapter Cable Rs485 Converter Cable with FTDI compatible with USB-RS485-WE-1800-BT: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy USB Rs485 Adapter Cable Rs485 Converter Cable with FTDI compatible with USB-RS485-WE-1800-BT at Amazon UK.

amzn.to

However, with a bit of research I was able to find a wiring diagram for the cable I received and work out what the individual coloured wires are used for and where they need to be wired into the AMP/Superseal connector:



Armed with this new-found knowledge, it was time to have a go at putting it together – starting with crimping the pin terminals.


* Note – the two redundant wires ( teal & brown) have been removed.

With the pin connectors attached, I then set about inserting these into the AMP connector housing:



I also found a rubber shoe to cover/protect the AMP connector on eBay – my thinking was to add some durability to the cable, especially if it is to be used periodically to communicate with the battery.

First a section of heat shrink to protect the exposed wires:



Then the rubber shoe to cover:



And here's what the finished cable looks like:



Communication with the battery:

After lots of messing around installing Windows on my Mac via Bootcamp, I finally got the Valence software installed and ready for the moment of truth – connecting the cable to the battery...

Bingo! It worked first time – I didn't even need to manually type in the 'Com Port' as others have experienced. I simply clicked the 'read' button and the USB cable started flashing blue to indicate communication with the battery.



The results:

As you can see, the battery cells are nicely balanced with no error flags and we have a total cycle count of 66... therefore I'm happy with my purchase and looking forward to installing it in my van.



Thanks – hope this can help others wanting to make up a cable.

 

[DXX]

I’m looking to buy a Victron Smart Blue charger, I’m in no rush to charge the battery after use but I want the correct capacity charger to avoid the charger overheating and reducing current when charging from 20% SOC.
Chargers with a C/2 capacity are approaching the cost of the battery so I’m definitely not considering that.
Will a 25A or 30A charger be sufficient to deal with the load? Note this battery won’t be installed in a van or charged with solar, it will be charged from mains power.
From earlier comment by @Dellmassive it seems that 15A chargers are too low capacity. The biggest Victron Smart Blue is 30A.

I just read an article stating that a lead / battery charger could be used on a LiFePo4 but never use one with an automatic Equalisation mode - that’s my lead / acic charger out of the question so I’m looking to buy a charger suitable for the Valence U27-12XP V2 with LiFePo4 mode.
The Victron chargers automatically reduce output current if the the charger starts to overheat, from what I read this isn’t ideal as the LiFePo4 requires constant current.
I’m going to be cycling the battery down to minimum safe voltage as it will be operating an outboard motor with no charging while in use. When it does get charged I’m not too bothered about how long it takes but I read that the 15A Victron charger overheated when you used it.
The U27-12XP V2 can charge at C/2; 138Ah / 2, this requires a big charger but like I say I’m in no rush to charge and don’t want to spend more on a bigger capacity charger than I need to provide a constant current charge without charger overheating.
I’m considering the Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12/25, BPC122513006. Do you think 25A is enough capacity to charge a 20% SOC battery in one hit without overheating?

 

[Deaks]

I have two of the older 130Ah models, I did change the BMS cable connectors to tyco superseal like the new batteries though.
So far so good, just waiting for the Vicreon Orion DC DC charger to complete the set.
I might stick in a rasperry Pi running Venus OS so I can monitor remotely.
I already have one running Home Assistant to control lighting, tailgate and gates to the house.
Just as well I have abig solar panel to keep up with the drain of that stuff

All this will be hidden by the furniture soon, just as well its like a disco with all the status LEDs!!

 

[Dellmassive]

I’m looking to buy a Victron Smart Blue charger, I’m in no rush to charge the battery after use but I want the correct capacity charger to avoid the charger overheating and reducing current when charging from 20% SOC.
Chargers with a C/2 capacity are approaching the cost of the battery so I’m definitely not considering that.
Will a 25A or 30A charger be sufficient to deal with the load? Note this battery won’t be installed in a van or charged with solar, it will be charged from mains power.
From earlier comment by @Dellmassive it seems that 15A chargers are too low capacity. The biggest Victron Smart Blue is 30A.

I've got the Victron 15A bluesmart . . .

and the Noco 15A . . .

which will charge these batteries as both have Lifepo4 profile . . . yes they get warm . . . but still work.

but i now have the Victron bluesmart 12/30/1 which is a 30A charger . . . . that get warm too . . . . but charges much faster . . .


have a look :

Battery Chargers - How I Did It -

Battery Chargers - How I Did It - So its that time of year again, cold, rainy. . . . . . . flat battery =[ This time we look at Battery Chargers. Our vans will most likely come with a AGM style starter battery, for this type of battery we need a "Smart Charger" . . . . but what does this...

www.t6forum.com

 

[Dellmassive]

I have two of the older 130Ah models, I did change the BMS cable connectors to tyco superseal like the new batteries though.
So far so good, just waiting for the Vicreon Orion DC DC charger to complete the set.
I might stick in a rasperry Pi running Venus OS so I can monitor remotely.
I already have one running Home Assistant to control lighting, tailgate and gates to the house.
Just as well I have abig solar panel to keep up with the drain of that stuff

All this will be hidden by the furniture soon, just as well its like a disco with all the status LEDs!!
View attachment 85868View attachment 85869

well done . . .

the install is looking well smart.

what sort of watts are you pulling? . . . any idea of the max yopu can draw?

whats the Renogy inverter-charger rated at?

 

[Dilbert]

From earlier comment by @Dellmassive it seems that 15A chargers are too low capacity.

I have a 15A Victron IP22 Smart charger and it works fine in continuous charging at 15A. It should deliver 15A all day long as that is what it is rated at.

I chose the 15A version because it is fanless and I am in no rush to charge once on electric hook up in the camper van. But noise and reliability are important. The battery will be pretty well charged anyway from driving with the B2B charge. 15A will easily keep up with my camper demands with solar also complimenting the setup.

 

[Dellmassive]

I have a 15A Victron IP22 Smart charger and it works fine in continuous charging at 15A. It should deliver 15A all day long as that is what it is rated at.

I chose the 15A version because it is fanless and I am in no rush to charge once on electric hook up in the camper van. But noise and reliability are important. The battery will be pretty well charged anyway from driving with the B2B charge. 15A will easily keep up with my camper demands with solar also complimenting the setup.

got some pics?

 

[Dilbert]

Not yet! Van is in use so I need a window to do the reconfiguring and installation with the Valence battery.

I will provide some photos when eventually sorted!

 

[Deaks]

well done . . .

the install is looking well smart.

what sort of watts are you pulling? . . . any idea of the max yopu can draw?

whats the Renogy inverter-charger rated at?

Thanks for all your advice when I was planning the install It really helped.
The Nespresso draws 1250 watts and the inverters fan stays off, I think it’s just ‘twiddling it’s thumbs’ with that load
Its just an inverter/mains switchover unit not a charger, it’s rated at 2000 watts but can peak at 3000 for 30 seconds.
I might try my Aldi hot air gun on it as that’s 2400 watts. I doubt that the 120mm2 cables will break into a sweat, I guess it’s more of a case of the batteries being able to deliver that load or not..... one way to find out I suppose.

One day soon I’ll get round to starting a build thread, I collated the pictures the other night in preparation.

Deaks

 

[Dellmassive]

How to make your own Valence USB cable & get the software


you need this cable USB > RS485:


USB Rs485 Adapter Cable Rs485 Converter Cable with FTDI: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy USB Rs485 Adapter Cable Rs485 Converter Cable with FTDI compatible with USB-RS485-WE-1800-BT at Amazon UK.
amzn.to

...

This TYCO AMP connector:

Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug Socket Male and Female 1.5mm Series Terminals Heat Shrink Quick Locking Wire Harness Sockets 1 Pin 2 Pin 3 Pin 4 Pin 5Pin 6 Pin Way 10 Kit (5 Pin): Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug Socket Male and Female 1.5mm Series Terminals Heat Shrink Quick Locking Wire Harness Sockets 1 Pin 2 Pin 3 Pin 4 Pin 5Pin 6 Pin Way 10 Kit (5 Pin): Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

amzn.to

------------------

2 3 4 5 6 way pin TYCO AMP Superseal Waterproof Connector Rubber Boots Sleeve

2 3 4 5 6 way pin TYCO AMP Superseal Waterproof Connector Rubber Boots Sleeve | eBay

SALE 2 3 4 5 and 6 Way TYCO AMP Superseal Rubber Boot Sets SALE. Suitable for Cars, Motorbikes, Trucks, Caravans, Machinery, Boats and other marine vehicles and all at the best prices. You will receive 2 rubber boots one for the male connector and one for the female connector for each item ordered.

rover.ebay.com

------

Tyco AMP Electrical Waterproof Connector 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pin Superseal Car Boat Kit | eBay

1 2 3 4 5 and 6 Way Waterproof Electrical Connectors SALE. Sealed Waterproof Connectors. 1 X Male connector housing and insert 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 way. 1 X Female connector housing and insert 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 way.

rover.ebay.com

and these conections:
..

******************





VALENCE software:
Here is a link to download a zip file containing the valence software to connect the laptop to its onboard computer. This one has three tabs in the bottom section and I heard there is a version that has four tabs if you know where I can get it let me know. It's for Windows only and will not work with Apple unless you run Windows in a virtual machine on your Apple with all kinds of hassle. If you're not plugging the batteries into a laptop I would suggest plugging the two communication cables into each other on the same battery to form a sort of handle that you should not lift the battery with. This will keep the metal pins inside the connectors clean and corrosion free. When you open the software after you install it you'll need to find the ModuleDiagG2.exe file in the program's folder (x86) folder. Right click on it and run as administrator. On my computer I was not able to right click on the desktop shortcut to accomplish this. Now you should have the valence program running and you'll see the main valence page with mostly blank boxes.
Next you need to set the logging path in the battery info tab. Near the bottom right side click on browse and choose a place somewhere on your computer probably in my documents folder you can create a folder called valence log files or something and choose that folder. Every once in a while like if my laptop goes to sleep and then wakes back up again I noticed the data reported in the software no longer reflects the correct battery when I switch between batteries. If this happens I simply restart the program and it's good to go again. If anyone knows how to write some basic code so that we can see the info on all the batteries on a live active spreadsheet that would be great if you help me out with that I'll share it with everyone. Valence software-20191020T204520Z-001.zip





COM PORT:
Now about choosing the comport. In the valence software click the comport drop down and you'll see that it's blank. There are no comm ports to choose even if have you previously set up the comport properly. You'll have to go to your hardware page to discover the com number. Then go to the software and literally type com7 or com5 or whatever the number was. And remember no spaces. Next look at the ID number I wrote on the battery and choose that in the drop-down. Connect to the communication wire from the balance computer into the rs485 USB adapter Then click start communication. You should now be seeing all the boxes filled with data from the batteries onboard computer. You can switch between batteries without ending and restarting communication but it only shows one battery at a time which is kind of annoying.