Valence U27-12XP Lifepo4 Lithium Battery -- How We Done It --

Have you tried it with 'Adaptive absorption time' switched off? Just wondering if its corrupting\overriding the reading...?
 
I’m watching the tests closely, I bought the same 30A charger, delivered today.
 
I’m watching the tests closely, I bought the same 30A charger, delivered today.
@Hickey has the 15A charger and is using the default profile . . .

thats one of the great thing about the Victron Blue Smart charges . . . . . the data logging =]

basically no one else come close in charger tech, not ctek or Noco.
 
last up is id-11 . . . . .

one of the original two batterys i had from last year.

id-11 is currently the backup battery for the camping battery box > 12v Lithium Leisure Battery Box 138Ah 1766Wh -- How I Done It --

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The original plan was to take a second Valence camping to swapout in the one in the battery box . . . the new idea is just to combine the two in parallel (if needed) with Anderson plugs . . . . but that a project for another day.

charge-discharge-charge test >>>>


id-11


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using default Li-ion pre-set. . .

14.2v - its basically charged . .

1600954374341.png1600954386515.png1600954397591.png

discharge test next . .

slight change up now . . .

I've rigged a remote laptop up to the battery so we can monitor the BMS data remotely . .

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and monitoring the data . . . .

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you can see all the data PIDS changing . . .

WH Dsch is going up and SOC is going down . . .

same loads as before, 30A from the dehumidifier and 10A from the heat gun . . . . 40A overasll, that shout give us about 3hrs.


**********

edit . . .

were almost empty now . .

11.4v and SOC reading 3% . . . but still drawing 43Amps.

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edit:


right the low battery protect has kicked in at 11v . . .

this is the valence data . . .

SOC 1%, with an 11.4v rest voltage. so it looks like the 11v cut off point is about perfect for these batteries.


this is the final discharge: 128ah . . . 128/138 * 100 = 92.7% rated capacity

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**********
next up is the recharge.

well go with the Victron 12/30/1 again . . but this time back to the default Lifepo4 profile . .

bulk/absorb @ 14.2v / 30A

storage @ 13.5v


1600971286266.png


**********

edit:

i think on the previous charge tests . . . .

not down powering the charger from the mains . . . . . and just hitting the "MODE" button to restart the cycle may have been an issue.

previusly it had reported the start voltage wrong . . .


this time it has picked up the correct start voltage . . .

**********
edit . . still charging.

2.45hrs in . . .

38ah in bulk
46ah in absorb . . .

im getting the feeling this charge cycle is going to "time out" again at 2hrs "max absorption" before the battery has recharged the 128ah that we drained from it earlier.


1600981655133.png1600981663047.png1600981672906.png


lets see . . . ill check back in 30mins

**********

edit . .

yep same thing has happened. . . the absors timed out at 2hrs . . and its moved into storage mode.

charging with 38ah + 57ah = 95ah . .

way short of the 128ah needed.

1600983143945.png1600983151006.png1600983158258.png



so ill restart the cycle by pressing the mode button.

1600983343622.png


**********

edit . . . well its finally fully charged. . . the second charge cycle put in 31.3ah and hit the 2hr absorption window then moved to storage mode.

added to the 1st charge cycles 95ah is (31.3ah + 95ah = 126ah)

which is back to the original 126ah we took from it.


1600990906944.png



1600990947069.png


**********

so even though on the default setting . . . said the battery was full.

we can see the numbers didn't add up. and there was still more charge to go in . . .

remember we are also working with a slightly lower voltage of 14.2v instead of 14.6v, maybe that makes a slight diference.


i think the easy fix is just to edit the default lithium profile and just extend the Absorption phase from 2hrs max to 3/4hrs max.


or even easier just start the cycle again . . .


**********

just for giggles i started the cycle again . . . . for a third time. . . .

it skipped bulk and went straight to absorb phase . . .

i let it run for 5mins . . . . but it only put on 0.1ah so i gave up and cancelled the test. (assuming it was starting another 2hr absorption session)




**********


End Test.
 
Last edited:
@Hickey has the 15A charger and is using the default profile . . .

thats one of the great thing about the Victron Blue Smart charges . . . . . the data logging =]

basically no one else come close in charger tech, not ctek or Noco.
there was a few firmware updates earlier in V5.33-1 in The Victron Connect App!...Victron are always on the ball FP
 
Valence U27-12XP Lifepo4 Lithium Battery - what do i need to run these ?


These batteries are normally part of a large array in trucks and come with a master BMS controller and sperate isolator relay . . .

This is what they look like in their natural habitat . .

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this is the OEM Master BMS . . .

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and these are the main Contactor Relays . .

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**********

These are very popular in the solar storage and Leisure application on the second hand market . . .

but there are some things that you need to know about how to get the best out of these batteries . .


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1: there is no internal "Low Voltage disconnect", this is because in the OEM setup the disconnect relay is separate in inline with a block of four batteries . . . what this means is that you can damage the battery if you run it too low (below 10v) . . . The manual states the OEM low volt cut off will kick in at 10v, but in our application we have to fit our own. there are many "battery protect" devices about . . . . My preferred unit is the Victron Smart Battery Protect. - Note that the internal BMS will track the voltage and show a green, yellow, red status LED.

you set the low volt trigger and at that point the loads are disconnected saving your battery . . . note all charge sources need to be behind it, ie dont back charge through it !

so you can either just use a battery monitor and isolator and switch off the battery when it runs low . . . or if like me your forgetful then fit the automatic version.

here is an example of the Victron 65A


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and the 100A version:


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2: Like most batteries there is no internal fuse or circuit breaker, we need to fit a safety fuse next to the battery. the fuse needs to be able to protect the cabling and installation. the size and rating of the fuse depends of the total system, the current drawn and the size of cables., ,. each cable or circuit needs to be protected by its own fuse. . . but the master battery fuse needs to be first inline and capable to carry to total system current . . . which is why the main battery cables are always the thickest.

you can use MIDI & MAXI fuses and fuse holders . . . you can also use thermal trip switches . . . . but from testing i have found to get hot in operation so prefer to use MIDI fuses now.

MIDI fuse holder example . .


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and MIDI fuses . . .


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3: Isolator switch . . . This is optional.

If you want a master ON/OFF switch for the battery bank you can fit one of these . . . You can also use the Victron smart protect as a virtual on/off switch . . . or just remove the MIDI fuse as mentioned above . . . you might want to use this when the van is parked up for an extended period . . . oe while doing work on the van?


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4: battery monitor . . . . This is optional. . . . being Lifepo4 a Shunt style of monitor is required . . . this will give you a gauged view of the SOC "state of charge" of the battery . . .

That will give you an idea of when to recharge etc and how much run time you have left . . . most will also show you how much power you are drawing or charging .

more can be seen over here > Battery Monitoring -- How I Done It --

My preferred shunt monitor is the Victron Smart Shunt, . . or the BMV712. . . . There are others now from Renogy and other suppliers.


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and


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The awesome BM2 is also a worthy investment for overall data logging (free APP on your phone, Bluetooth) . . with it you can see the over trend of the voltage in your system and see how and when the battery is being drained or charged. . .



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5: A Proper charge source . . . "Charger" . . . There is no inbuilt charge protection, so its important that you use a charger fit for purpose. most modern smart charger are suitable if they have a lithium profile . .

Remember "charge Sources" are EHU charger, DC-DC charger, Solar charger etc etc etc . . . basically any source that will feed to power to the battery. - s o you need to make sure that all your charge sources are suitable

more can be seen here >

EHU - Battery Chargers - How I Did It -
DC-DC - DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --
Solar - Solar PWM & MPPT Controllers - How I Done It -

my preferred charger is now Victron because of the excellent data monitoring, configuration and usability of the free Blutooth APP.

heres two examples of the ones i have:

15A blue smart charger . . .


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30A blue smart 12/30/1 charger


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6: Low temperature protection . . . . . These batteries can be used down to -10degc which is great . . . . BUT the only issue is charging !!

like most Lifpo4 batterys they should not be charged below 0dec . . . or 5degC if you add a margin... . one option is to fit a temp monitor and APP to get some real data on the batteries temp . . . . just because its freezing outside it doesn't mean the battery inside the van is also freezing . . . so start with a temp monitor.

like one of these . . . Fridges & Cold Beer -- How I Done It --


1600964182762.png


if you are in a situation where you need to charge at very cold temps then look at some of the options over here > Lithium LifePo4 12v Batteries - Time For An Upgrade?

or get yourself some 12v heat pads and thermostat . . . but remember is only CHARGING where this is important . . . . you may find that just running some loads for a few mins is enough to raise the battery temp.


7: BMS comms cable and software . . . optional . . . the internal BMS in the OEM setting is running 24/7 as as such data logs all the battery metrics . . . like SOC and WH discharged etc etc . . . BUT when the battery is separated from the master BMS the data logging is switched OFF after a few mins. . .

that is until you get/make your own cable and run you own software . . so when the battery is running stand alone . . . as in our vans the data logging is disabled . .

its been suggested to have the cable and software . . . because when plugged in and connected the internal BMS starts logging data and activates the top balancer circuit. . . the suggestion is that with daily use (charge /discharge cycles) that the battery should be fully charged with the cable and software connected to that a fully top balance of the internal cells is carried out ( every 1-3months if battery is used daily) . - note that most users of these batteries don't do this and just charge and discharge as normal with no ill effects provided the charging and discharge limits are not exceeded. (im doing tests to see if the internal balancer kicks in without the software connected)








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Quick question @Dellmassive if I may ?
I’m definitely going to build a battery box with my lifepo4 battery. Great thread by the way .
I’m unsure what to do with the negative connection regarding grounding . Is grounding not required ??! Sorry if a stupid question !
Thanks
 
Quick question @Dellmassive if I may ?
I’m definitely going to build a battery box with my lifepo4 battery. Great thread by the way .
I’m unsure what to do with the negative connection regarding grounding . Is grounding not required ??! Sorry if a stupid question !
Thanks

have you seen the battery box thread? . .


battery box thread here :



do you mean Earth grounding from an inverter?

or are we talking about the battery negative cable?


a battery box is electrically isolated from everything when its mobile . . . . . but if your talking about fitting it inside the van, and connected to the van electrically, say for charging via a dc-dc charger or solar . . . then yes the battery box negative needs to be connected in some was to the van chassis or body work.

I've done this before with 50A Anderson connectors.


so if fitting a battery box in the van you need to have a fused postivie supply charge cable (being fed from the dc-dc or solar) and a chassis ground cable.
 
have you seen the battery box thread? . .


battery box thread here :



do you mean Earth grounding from an inverter?

or are we talking about the battery negative cable?


a battery box is electrically isolated from everything when its mobile . . . . . but if your talking about fitting it inside the van, and connected to the van electrically, say for charging via a dc-dc charger or solar . . . then yes the battery box negative needs to be connected in some was to the van chassis or body work.

I've done this before with 50A Anderson connectors.


so if fitting a battery box in the van you need to have a fused postivie supply charge cable (being fed from the dc-dc or solar) and a chassis ground cable.

Hi @Dellmassive , sorry I wasn’t very clear . I meant the battery negative . I’m not going to connect Anything to The van. Just have the battery box freestanding within the van or outside if needed .

I will use a mains battery charger too top it up before I travel . And potentially from a mains extension cable . So I can leave the box in the van .
dose it need grounding while charging from mains ?
 
Hi @Dellmassive , sorry I wasn’t very clear . I meant the battery negative . I’m not going to connect Anything to The van. Just have the battery box freestanding within the van or outside if needed .

I will use a mains battery charger too top it up before I travel . And potentially from a mains extension cable . So I can leave the box in the van .
dose it need grounding while charging from mains ?
gotcha.

no. if the box is freestanding and not electrically connected to the van then no grounding is needed from the battery negative terminal to the vans chassis. . .

so im assuming that the box will have USB sockets only? . . and maybe a 12v socket?


ill copy this post over to the battery box thread, as its more relevant . .
 
gotcha.

no. if the box is freestanding and not electrically connected to the van then no grounding is needed from the battery negative terminal to the vans chassis. . .

so im assuming that the box will have USB sockets only? . . and maybe a 12v socket?


ill copy this post over to the battery box thread, as its more relevant . .

Thanks @Dellmassive , correct 12v & usb only .

thanks for you help:thumbsup: got it sussed now .
 
there was a few firmware updates earlier in V5.33-1 in The Victron Connect App!...Victron are always on the ball FP


this is the APP version on my phone Android . . .


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@Dellmassive I'm still battling internally whether to go for one of these. I've got a compatible Victron MPPT that I could keep, I'd go for the Victron 30A mains charger at £140 and the Victron LBD at £58 and manually manage low temperature disconnect for now.

Just a couple more questions if possible please. Having tested them all, which DC/DC charger would you go for if you were mounting it permanently in a van? I'd prefer not more than 30A for heat reasons I think. And what would be the cheapest way of determining state of charge? Preferably not bluetooth to phone, I prefer a permanent screen. Not too bothered about monitoring charging, though I'd keep using my homemode monitor for the solar side, just a straightforward "X%" would do me. I just can't get my head round £200 for the BMV712
 
@andys



Having tested them all, which DC/DC charger would you go for if you were mounting it permanently in a van -

The Redarc if space was an issues as its small.
The Victron Orion, if i had a Victron setup as it works with the one APP.
The Renogy for any other solution and it now has a BT-2 monitor

**

what would be the cheapest way of determining state of charge? Preferably not bluetooth to phone, I prefer a permanent screen -

you NEED a shunt style meter to check that metric.

The Victron BMV712 is awesome (has a display screen), . . . . but pricey

Renogy have a new shunt based monitor (with screen) £69.99 - Renogy 500A Battery Monitor

@Hickey has the cloan version off BangGood - Valence U27-12XP Lifepo4 Lithium Battery -- How We Done It --

and then you can look at these:



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@andys
FYI Renogy 30A DC-DC with MPPT
or
20A no solar.
 
Some Geek sessions with the internal balance resistor banks . .


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dellmassive said:
are we 100% sure that the cell "top-balancing" does not take place when the charge cycle is near the top end . . 13.7v up? with no data coms??

is the internal BMS asleep? . . . yet it does keep the status LED flashing green,yellow,red. . . so some of it must be awake?
***************

Interesting tests, nice to get some confirmation of the internal hardware.

Regarding top-balancing: yes, 100% sure, the bleed resistors will not activate unless the internal BMS is awake (LED flashing every 5 seconds). Sure, it's never completely asleep as it's flashing the status LED and listening on the RS485, but it has been designed to use absolute minimum power for when the battery is in long term storage. The baud rate that it listens at when asleep is 9600 (as opposed to 115200 when awake). This suggests the processing speed of the internal processor has been clocked right down to save power.

If you charge the batteries at a high voltage without the internal BMS awake, then the cells may balance anyway, with the lower ones absorbing more power eventually, but you run the risk that the higher cells will go over voltage which will shorten their life.

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@seb303 i know you said it was 100% confirmed . . . . . but i just had to do my own tests.

i though you might like the data:

charger connected (already fully charged) up and ramped up to 14.6v for 15min . . . (well within the top-balence zone)


1601034893633.png


..

BMS sleeping, green blink every 20s . . . as expected . . . stone cold.

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..


software and lead connected . .


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..



we get an immediate response . .

BMS wakes up . . . green blink every 5sec.

and bleed resistors start heating up for banks 2,3,4.

1601034947587.png



...



then disconnect the lead . . . BMS goes to shelf mode again . . and resistors cool off. . .

1601034963367.png


...



reconnect again . . . . same happens. BMS wakes up . . . bleed resistors kick in..

1601034987157.png


..


so there we go, test complete. results as expected . .


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